In Wanaka, and had no idea that this weekend there is an International Triathlon Event. In fact everyone I speak to is surprised that I didn’t know. Just shows how parochial I am.

In Christchurch, I picked up a hire car, a great improvement to my travels. Firstly I went to stay with an old friend from Butchers Arms (Ampney Crucis) days who has been out here for about 22 years. He was a great source of knowledge both from the farming angle and the settlers’ histories, as he volunteers three days a week in the local, Timaru, museum. Also he is transcribing old diaries written by the people who settled his homestead originally.

From Timaru a beautiful drive to Mount Cook, passing Lake Pukaki, where the water is the most unbelievable pastel shade of turquoises, greens and blues and on up to the village below the mountain, (the highest in New Zealand, where both Mannering and Edmond Hillary cut their mountaineering teeth). By then everything was covered in cloud, but on the lower shoulders on the nearest mountain it was easy to see glaciers, both dirty and gritty as well as the beautiful blue green you expect. But no Mount Cook. The clouds were low through the night, and as predicted it snowed higher up, so by next morning everything was visible, clean and shiny white.

I went for a long tramp, and got incredibly cold and wet, but worth it, because I saw, albeit mini, icebergs on the lake I had reached, cast off by the glacier at the head of the valley. So cold, that when I stood under the shower on returning, I scalded myself, as I couldn’t feel how hot the water was. By the time I was ready for a restorative hot chocolate and cake at the cafe across the road, it was snowing!!! Still it made the mountains even more awesome.

So through more beautiful landscapes to Wanaka, where the YHA is excellent, but I got some odd looks from fellow hostellers as I finished cooking my beautiful organic salmon with a slosh of wine. Well it’s the first time I’ve cooked in over three months!!……..l