Author Archives: Paul

Malta here we come

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I’d forgotten how uncomfortable Easyjet plane seats are but, given we were travelling through the night and none of us had slept, I only saw 1 out of the 3 hours flight. The boys got their heads down too.

Leaving MIA airport on our shared shuttle bus was a cosy experience revealing a built up town, quite industrial in part and a little run down at times. Heading out of the town the sights became more rural with small vineyards, dry stone walling and hedges cultivated from giant cactus.

Looking at the buildings there was an instant sense of the islands history with large dome-roofed buildings perched on top of the hills. The were also a few religious icons and statues but this maybe historical rather than current or maybe both.

Arriving at the hotel an hour or so ahead of check in we dropped our bags off and went for a stroll to check out the locality. We found the Tal-Kaptan, an Italian restaurant with loads of veggie offerings, several bars advertising free wifi and the local corner store for essential supplies. Well, I say essential supplies, our last swag bag consisted of fags, munchies and a six pack of Bud.

Once checked in, we retired to our room on the 5th floor and unpacked. The room is good, comfortable for 3 and a balcony overlooking the sea. The main road alongside the seafront is quite busy in the day but much quieter at night.

Temperatures are good with a gentle breeze, I think I’m going to like Malta.

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How time flies

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Having boarded the ferry at Rosslare and awaiting departure, I can but wonder where this last week has gone. It seems only yesterday the satnav was guiding through the highways of Ireland on route to Claremorris.

It has been a fantastic time catching up with the nine strong clan unseen for seven years, and some I was meeting for the first time. The newest member, Ariana is gorgeous and I think it’s safe to say we are now the best of friends. She is very lucky to have Rebecca as such a wonderful Mum.

Food played a big part of our week not least the oat balls made by Noah and Izabella. And Francesca spoilt us with home cooked vegetarian fare second to none. The twins, Cassie and Olivia, although ill were great. Olivia makes the perfect helper in the kitchen and we all shared numerous games of peg solitaire on the iPads. Cassie accompanied us to see Skyfall with her elder brother Lucas at the cinema at Castlebar. Lucas has really grown up although he has not lost his cheeky smile, something that will stand him in good stead with the ladies for years to come I’m sure. Finally we have Victoria who, like Lucas, has really grown up, blossoming into a lovely lady. I have watched her play tennis and listened to her play the recorder and loved every minute.

Aside from family, Claremorris is a chilled and friendly part of Ireland offering not only friendly smiles and a warm welcome but lovely vegetarian lunches and the best Guinness I have drunk. So much so even the Latvian ladies in Wardes pub looked Good! Quickest pair of beer goggles I have ever experienced.

We have walked, talked, wined and dined and now I find myself returning home relaxed, recharged and smiling.

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Emerald Isle road trip

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There is nothing better than waking up in the morning, packing a bag, jumping in the car and going for a road trip. By the time I left Cheltenham I had a full tank of gas, half a pack of baccy and I was wearing sunglasses.

My route took me through the Forrest of Dean, and with the seasons sun sitting low in the sky, the autumnal green and gold was warm and calming. As I strayed into the familiar territory of the heads of the valleys the sky turned grey and the autumn scenery was interrupted with the slender blades of wind turbines. They seem quite surreal.

Passing Pembroke the satnav decided to take the scenic route through small lanes winding up and over mountains until Fishguard harbour came into sight. The sea looked calm only gently swaying the few fishing boats moored in waiting.

The crossing was very smooth even though the captain announced before moving out that he would be using stabilisers. Must be a trainee captain. And now I get to set foot on the Emerald Isle for the first time, Ireland being the only country in these sceptres isles I have never visited before.

And finally I arrive in Claremorris after nearly 5 hours of driving through a mixture of dual carriageways and windy lanes. A few glasses of whiskey and it’s off to to bed before meeting the rest of the clan tomorrow. And Noah says I can walk to school with him tomorrow.

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Final day

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Well my final day is coming to an end and I have to say I’m not looking forward to being back in the UK.

As for today I had a lazy morning followed by an authentic Thai massage. Wow, I have to say it lived up to everything I had been told. After being bent all shapes, massaged deep to the bone and even having fingers and toes cracked I walked out smiling and feeling very, very chilled.

Then it was time to use up the last few Baht in my pocket so I wandered through the streets one last time. Even at 2 in the afternoon there were still the occasional calls of “long hair”! Walking past these I hit a few shops and stalls, bought what I wanted and now I’m back in time to shower and pack my case ready for the trip to Bangkok airport, Heathrow and on to Cheltenham.

Here’s hoping the sun is shining in the UK, that will at least make things a little more palletable.

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Drawing to a close

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Every time I wander out in Pattaya there seems to be something new that I haven’t seen before. Walking round to buy a few bits and pieces there were new stalls, shops and even whole roads that I hadn’t come across before. And now is the time for bartering, a somewhat strange concept to a Westerner like me. But I had a go and it was good although no matter how much I haggled the price down I always came away feeling I’d lost the duel. Save for the last encounter where the price was written on the back of the label, around half the initial asking price. Had a good deal there I think.

So shopping done for now it’s time for another couple of days under the waves. The first day was ok, met some really nice folks on the boat and got to dive with the boss but again the visibility wasn’t too good. For the second day we went out to the Hardeep wreck of the Koh Samaesan. Apparently it is an Indonesian steamship requisitioned by the Japanese during World War II and sunk by Allied bombing in 1942.

We drifted out to the marker buoy, descended the barnacle covered chain to the sea bed and followed a line to the ship. It was pretty good, fairly good visibility and plenty to see. The ascent was more interesting with the current throwing you round a fair bit. After the 3 minute safety stop at 6 metres, and now with almost no visibility due to the current, my instructor motioned to release the line. We just floated gently in the current and when we hit the surface there was the boat. It was amazing to just drift with no visual reference at all.

The second dive of the day was coral just around the corner of the islands head and it was quite spectacular. The corals were good and the fish varied from shoaling yellowtails and angry little pink Anemonefish to some large butterfly fish and a very curious remora at the safety stop. A very good dive to end on and I think I’ve learnt as much diving here in Thailand as I did doing my courses out on the Great Barrier Reef.

To finish of the day we had a couple of beers at a Swiss bar just down the road before heading to an Italian restaurant on Beach Road that brew their own beer, and very nice it was too. Then it was back to the Boxing Roo, stopping off briefly at a club on the way back.

A very good few days.

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No penetration allowed

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Saturday started with an early rise and breakfast at a French restaurant in Jomtien before heading to the dive shop for a couple more excursions under the waves. Phil was also diving along with a couple of his work colleagues.

These two dives were old US war ships given to the Thai navy and sunk to for artificial reefs. This would be my first wreck dive and I’m not quite sure how it will compare to coral dives.

After the dive brief we kitted up and began the line decent to around 26 metres. With visibility limited to 6 metres there were no reference points on the way down but once we got to the bottom the ship came slowly into view. There was little current so it was easy to move around and look at things. And there was quite a lot to see if you could find it. Due to the low visibility we had to stay close to the instructor, John, but after looking at some colourful Nudibranches I looked up to see John and Phil swimming off. So I caught up with them just as they descended into a square hatch. Now I had a quandary. As I am not trained for penetrative wreck diving i knew i shouldn’t go in but John and Phil had gone in. I was just about to follow when I felt a sharp tug on my fin. It was John. I was following the wrong group!

The second wreck dive was different as the visibility dropped to 2 metres max and the current was a rising 50 for the ascent. As we waited a the 3 metre safety stop I could feel my mask being lifted and had to angle my head to prevent it being ripped off. It also made the exit from the water interesting! Two other divers attempted a drift around the bow of the wreck to the bottom of the line. They missed it and we’re swept away. The boat spotted their marker about 500 metres from the boat and they were safely picked up.

Both dives were good and I would like to do some more wreck diving but with better visibility and less divers. Overcrowding does not make for good diving.

In the evening we took a motorbike taxi up to Jomtein to eat Italian but unfortunately it was closed. Mexican was a good second choice. We then headed for a stroll down Pattiya’s infamous Walking Street, so called as it is closed to traffic in the evening. It was busy even through the evening was young, most of the bars and restaurants stay open until at least 4am. With so many bars and clubs it must be time for a beer or two after such a busy day.

Go with the flow

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A few days spent in Pattaya now and the initial culture shock has gone. It really is something to see all round and the food is great even for a vegetarian!

The plan had been to go down to Koh Kood for a couple of days but the dive shop i was hoping to use is closed until October due to heavy rains. This probably means both Koh Kood and Koh Chang are fairly inaccessible and, even if I could get out, there would be no point going in the water. I was half expecting this. So a quick call to the Mermaid Dive Centre here in Pattaya and I was picked up at 8 this morning at the top of the road for a days diving at some nearby islands.

It was a really good dive trip, very different to the Great Barrier Reef but well worth it. There were quite a lot of fish around although I didn’t ID many. I did spot my first Moray Eel and there was a lovely Blue Spotted String Ray sheltering under some coral. Phil tells me they taste quite nice but I was happy to just stop a while and watch.

The most amazing thing was the current on the second dive as I have not dived in current before. It was rising 40 which to me felt quite strong. But hey, just go with the flow as seems to be the way here in Thailand.

Hopefully tomorrow I will be doing a couple of wreck dives. Can’t wait.

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Night time Pattaya style

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After having a couple of beers and a few games of pool in the Roo, Phil and I headed out into the still hot evening. First stop, the all veggie Thai restaurant I failed to find earlier and turning the corner onto Pattaya Tai there it was. Looking like a little cafe we entered the strangely named “Five Star Tai Restaurant” and sat down to look at the menu.

The menu was a huge A4 ring binder with so much choice and all veggie. We picked a couple of dishes each to share and wow, it was something else. There was almost to much to eat but we managed! And it only came to 300 Bart, about a days wages for a Thai.

Stomachs loaded we headed off for a walk down some of the side roads I had skirted past earlier. The first thing that struck me was the signs, it was neon city overload. Every bar and club had groups of girls or ladyboys outside. There job I guess is to get you in to buy drinks by paying you complements. I had been informed I would be called handsome man and this is the norm. I was I’ll informed as it turned out. I walked down the street to calls of “long hair, long hair, I like long”.

It would have been rude not to call into a couple of clubs for curiosity if nothing else. As we approached the first club the bouncer pulled aside the black curtain and we walked straight in. We were ushered straight to a small table facing the dancing tables and drinks were ordered. Maybe I’m getting old but the girls didn’t seem old enough to be working there although the Thai authorities are apparently quite strict and all girls have to be over 21. And as for me being old, not by the standards of some of the clientele. There were some quite old guys in there with young Thai girls on their arms watching the show.

We had a couple of drinks and moved on.

The next club was pretty much the same although the music was a bit better! Scantily clad girls dancing on tables hoping for drinks to be bought. After a few more beers we moved on again.

Lots of calls from the girls/boys continued up the street and the occasional one coming to stand right in front of us. Next port of call was an English pub for a quite beer and a decent toilet. After the hustle bustle of the streets and the clubs we had been in it seemed really flat.

With Phil having work in the morning we headed back towards the Roo and parted company, I opted for a few more beers and a couple of games of pool before retiring.

All in all a good night and, although really not my scene today has been quite an experience. And I’m sure I have only just scratched the surface of Pattaya.

Tomorrow is time for the camera as there are just so many photo opportunities here.

Time to wander

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Ok, with the pub now open, a couple go beers under my belt and directions to the nearest chemist it’s time for the off. First step, cross the road and there is no other way than to go for it. My strategy, avoid the big stuff and hope the little stuff goes round me. It seems to work.

My route is just go round the block and hopefully find the all veggie Thai restaurant Phil mentioned somewhere on route. Just round the block turned out to be quite a stroll, and a noisy one at that. But more than the noise, you kind of expect that in a city, it was the smells. The open drainage covers do not have a pleasant odour and I’m guessing there is sewage going into these. And then there is the traffic fumes. But in amongst this were explosions laundry drying and food cooking. All in all quite a sensory experience.

So the route is Pattaya 3 to Pattaya Klang down to Pattaya Beach and back up Pattaya Tai. And what a route it was. As before there was every kind of shop and stall but now they were walking up. And it got busier as I moved down Central (Klang) towards the beach. And those damn taxis confused me too. At first I thought they were beeping their funny little horns because I, or someone else, was in the way. But no, they’re touting for business.

Having reached the beach road I was met with a packed sea view. The beach was covered in parasol covered loungers. And when I say parasols we’re talking the size of the pub umbrellas back home in the beer gardens. So big and tightly packed that most of the sand was in shade for the whole stretch, a shame as where the light did stray through the sand looked almost white. And the sea wasn’t much better with boats and ships and jet skis all over the place. Some of the boats, mainly out near the island, looked quite different. I’m guessing these are Thai boats.There were huge lines of buoy makers I assume to separate swimmers from the jet skis. I’m not quite sure what the marine life thought of it all but I didnt fancy taking a dip.

Moving on down the Beach road there were quite a few hustlers of varying nationalities, age and genders all asking to a moment to take a survey. Then there were the suit sellers armed with their glossy portfolio.

By the end of Beach road the heat was starting to get to me, what is it they say about mad dogs and English men? So I headed on the last leg back up Pattaya Tai, trying to stay in the shade as much as possible. And no sign of the restaurant.

By the end of my little wander I was very hot, quite tired and having a near sensory meltdown with so much to take in. And this is out of season, a quite time as the locals put it. I headed for the house to chill for a while. Then after more sun block and a few bottles of water I headed to the Roo for a beer and to meet Phil who would be home from work shortly.

Then I guess my Pattaya insight will deepen as the night beckons.

Crazy roads and heat

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Woke up fairly early and had a steady morning, unpacked, had breakfast, showered, all the normal stuff. Then it was time to venture outside so I dressed like a tourist but with my wardrobe I have no other choice. I was hoping that this indoor sticky heat would desist once outside in the open air.

So, kitted out in shorts, thongs (translation: flip flops) and a light summer shirt that now feels thick and heavy I left the building. At first it was quite nice, hotter but not so humid. That lasted for about 2 minutes as the temperature here is about 31-32. I could feel the rays burning so I aimed myself down Pattaya 3 in search of a 7 eleven where I could by some factor 30 and a bottle of cold water. But no such store appeared. There were bike shops, bars, massage parlours and strange bike stalls with umbrellas selling a whole manner of dead sticky stuff but no 7 eleven.

I could feel the sun starting to burn so I thought I take a walk back on the other side which seemed more shaded and look for Phil’s local, the Boxing Roo. I guessed they’d speak a form of English so I could find a the place to get sun block for the price of a beer or two.

Trying to cross the road proved impossible, maybe I should have just gone for it but I wasn’t carrying my travel insurance card. Staying on the same side wasn’t that safe either with step through scooters taking short cuts on the pavement and expecting pedestrians to avoid them.

I got back to the Boxing Roo and it hadn’t opened yet, it was only 11.45am. I new i had to get out of the sun so I headed round the corner for home. That hot and humid house now felt like walking into an ice box, it was lovely. I shall wait a bit for the Roo to open then venture out again.