The Azure Window

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One of the best days out in Malta has to be our trip to Gozo, in particular the stop at the Azure Window. Winding our way down the bumpy, pot-holed road atop the Hop On, Hop Off bus revealed the huge limestone landscape backed by the Mediterranean Sea.

On the left was the large, free standing Fungus Rock, so called as it has an abundance of a fungus much treasured by the defending forces of the knights of St. John during one of Malta’s many sieges. The fungus was believed to have strong medicinal healing properties.

To the right stands the Azure Window itself, a huge archway projecting into the sea and really is something to see. Just in front of the this is Gozo’s very own blue hole created by natural erosion and descending into the waters to a depth of 60m. This was the entry point for one of my best dives in Malta. We descended the Blue Hole, swam through a hole in wall at about 6m and continued through the Azure Window. Looking up you can see the shadow of the rock as you pass underneath as well as feeling the drop in temperature due to the sheltering from the sun. The dive continued along the rock wall with huge drop offs leading to the clear blue, through cracks and up a narrow tunnel, into a small cave with stunning views of the light filtering through the water.

Getting of the bus we just stood and surveyed the landscape for a while attempting to take it all in. Then came the walk up and over the Azure Window itself revealing a very different perspective of the vista. Beautiful.

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Musings from the Island

Malta is a small island totalling a mere 35 km in length and yet it seems wherever you look there something new to see. Some of the views are stunning and, due to its small size, many are set against a Mediterranean backdrop.

One of the first things I’ve noticed was the small cars. If you drive a Fiat Punto you have a medium sized car with many smaller cars being of the smart car class. I guess there is no need for large vehicles on such a small land mass. This doesn’t deter the youth from pimping their cars however this customisation amounts to no more than furry dice and a popping tail pipe. Many times I have been sat outside a bar or cafe and turned by head to see the big Harley Davidson approaching at speed only to see a Daewoo turning the corner at 15 mph.

As for food there is a large Italian influence with pasta and pizza featuring quite heavily on most menus. We’ve found some real gems here and feel quite sorry for the all inclusive guests who are missing out. Two of the most notable local restaurants are Duos (a beautiful red pesto risotto) and Mother Earth. If we ate fish the list would feature others. The award however has to has to go to Georgio’s cafe in Selima who make hot chocolate like I have never tasted before. It was that thick and creamy the spoon could almost stand up in it. Heavenly.

Buses feature heavily on Malta roads and are a fantastically cheap way to travel. There are 3 main routes and an all day ticket costs just €2.60 allowing you to visit many places on one ticket. This does come with an attached warning as the standing capacity is nearly double the amount of seats. Given the amount of bendy buses in operation and the poor condition of the hilly, windy roads, the ride can be quite interesting should you embark at peak travel times.

Malta is an island steeped in history, something we have only scratched the surface of. They have have been invaded, colonised and suffered near genocide at the hands of many nations including the Arabic nations, the French, British, Romans, the list goes on. One good way to delve into the history is to take a tourist ‘Hop on, hop off bus’. These colourful, open top double decker tourist buses visit all the main sights and come complete with a very good audio guide. When you get to somewhere you want to spend a little time, you just hop off, already armed with a basic knowledge and then hop on the next bus when you are ready to move on.

Religion is fairly strong here, the various icons being noticeable as soon as we set foot on Maltese soil. Malta is 95% catholic and has many churches, often dominating the skyline of towns and villages. On Sundays however, the churches on Malta are rarely full as the Maltese head for Gozo to practice their faith. Gozo is said to have more churches than native Gozitans.

The people here are really friendly and the Island is geared heavily towards tourism. English is the second language, something that helps us Brits. Many of the Maltese are multi-lingual. It has to be said that there is definitely a fiery streak in the Maltese psyche, something I have rarely seen but definitely there, particularly in the eyes of the women.

All in all Malta is a pretty nice place to take whatever you want from your time abroad and all steeped in the Mediterranean sun.

Back in the blue

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Man flu dissipated and Liam eager to try a dive, we were collected from the hotel after an early breakfast along with fellow guest Kerry we met the night before. The transportation was a truck, not exactly luxury but perfect for carrying the scuba tanks and other dive gear.

At the shop we descended the narrow stairs to a very cool basement to get fitted with our gear. I had brought my wetsuit but 3mm was nowhere near enough, I needed a full 5mm and a 5mm shortie on top. It was snug.

With everyone sorted we piled into the trucks now loaded with tanks, assorted dive gear and even more travellers to brave the Maltese roads leading towards the Gozo ferry terminal. This was to be our dive site.

All kitted out and buddied up I waived to Liam who was going through his basic training with the instructor and walked down to the entry point, fins in hand. Sitting on the edge to put my fins on was ok but the weight of the gear combined with my lack of fitness, standing was impossible without the help of my buddie. Once up I took the giant stride into the water, the cold shock taking my breath away and inflating my BCD was awkward. Still I was here to get used to my new kit. Once I calmed my breathing and found my inflator it was time to descend though the jellyfish and head out along the wall leading to the wreck.

The wreck was only a small tug boat but I didn’t care, I was back in the water. On the way there was one of the biggest groupers I have ever seen, sheltering half way down the wall watching these strange bubble-blowing creatures glide past.

The wreck was ok although my air consumption wasn’t, a combination of the cold and unfamiliar gear meant I was using it fast. We headed back from the wreck and I had to concentrate to my buoyancy at the safety stop. This wasn’t helped by the jellyfish, pretty as they were. Rising to the surface, one stray tentacle brushed my top lip giving me an annoying stinging feeling and slight swelling. This dive was not one of my finest moments.

Liam however seemed to be doing ok. He was still in the water and as I made my way out I saw him deflate his BCD and disappear from sight. Kerry on the other hand struggled with her breathing, feeling too restricted in her gear and had thrown the towel in. Liam appeared from the water moments later rocking his hand from side to side. He had problems clearing his mask, panicked and took in a mouthful of sea water. His diving was done for the day.

I was determined to get a better dive and listened to the next briefing with intent. It was another wreck with a 5 minute swim without reference. This time we walked into the water, put our fins on a swam out into the blue. The cold didn’t affect me as I was expecting it and once surrounded by nothing but clear blue water it was fantastic. No floor, no surface, no rock wall, just blue.

As the back of the wreck came into view, there was a large, square opening soon illuminated by the touches of the divers who were going inside. We swam around the outside finding plenty of fish of all shapes and colours, including two grumpy-looking lion fish. The front of the boat had a mounted gun complete with shells.

Completing the tour of the ship I was again towards the rear of the boat when I experienced what I believe may be called narcosis. A bit of a buzz tinged with very mild claustrophobia. I wasn’t overly deep but both dives were below 30 meters. Rising a little alleviated the effect and my attention now focused on the white anemone waving from the mast. Back through the blue to the safety stop I saw grass on the bottom sparkling with bright light which turned out to be small disc- shaped fish weaving in and out and reflecting the light.

Back on dry land and I was buzzing. Two very different dives had taken me deeper than i had gone before, experienced the blue like never before and been stung by my first jellyfish. I had also got used to my new kit quicker than I expected.

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A night out

With high winds lasts night the hotel suffered a temporary blackout except for our bathroom light. A quick look over our balcony revealed other bemused holidaymakers peering over their balconies to see everyone in the same boat. Bathroom lights only. The power cut, although lasting a mere 5 minutes also knocked out the Internet.

When the power was restored and the lights flickered on, all seemed back to normal except the Internet was still out. A trip to reception informed us of the wifi failure for our block but we were welcome to sit in the lobby. So Ieuan settled in the comfy seats in the lobby to use Skype whilst Liam and I opted for a beer in the Ambassador lounge.

Ieuan didn’t last long due to some other guests playing the baby grand piano badly, aggravating his man flu headache. Liam then chanced his luck in the lobby use the wifi on his phone and I met him on the way back. Ieuan was right, the piano playing was awful due mainly to alcohol. So Liam and I did the only decent thing and escorted the three ladies to a local bar. Things went down hill from then on. One of the girls took a shine to Liam and began buying him shots. Three went down in quick succession and I decided it was time to move on as they were becoming far too friendly whilst under my parental gaze.

The next bar saw a couple more drinks at which point Liam’s newly found acquaintance passed out on the bar. I helped her sister carry her back to the hotel at which point Liam began to suffer from the shots. We said good night and retired to our room where Liam could spin in piece in the comfort of his own bed.

Brits abroad. You’ve gotta love ‘um.

Acclimatising to the locale

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The first few days in Malta have been spent relaxing and exploring the local area. We’ve taken leisurely strolls around Qawra where we are staying and into Bugibba.

On the walk into Bugibba we stopped at our chosen dive shop who will give the boys a confined water course followed by a try dive to 12m. They are both up for it and, if my cold clears up in time, we will all be taking some time out under the waves.

The views overlooking St. Paul’s Bay are quite something although Buggiba is quite touristy. The occasional beggar makes a b-line for the obvious tourists asking for 3 Euros and the souvenir shops come thick and fast.

We found a little cafe perched half way up the hill just off the main square for a caffeine fix and the boys got a shot of free wifi.

Today we hopped on a local bus to Valetta wandering the narrow streets, walking along the fortified seafront and dipping in and out of the shops. I hadn’t realised how my two boys had grown into such shopping divas. Valetta really is a pretty place and with the museums, library and cathedrals we did not have time to peruse, I think we will visit again.

On the return journey I jumped off the bus with Liam in Bugibba to confirm our diving day. My cold has cleared but it looks as though Ieuan will not be diving this time round as he now has the dreaded man flu. Saturday it is for Liam’s first dip into the deep blue.

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Malta here we come

I’d forgotten how uncomfortable Easyjet plane seats are but, given we were travelling through the night and none of us had slept, I only saw 1 out of the 3 hours flight. The boys got their heads down too.

Leaving MIA airport on our shared shuttle bus was a cosy experience revealing a built up town, quite industrial in part and a little run down at times. Heading out of the town the sights became more rural with small vineyards, dry stone walling and hedges cultivated from giant cactus.

Looking at the buildings there was an instant sense of the islands history with large dome-roofed buildings perched on top of the hills. The were also a few religious icons and statues but this maybe historical rather than current or maybe both.

Arriving at the hotel an hour or so ahead of check in we dropped our bags off and went for a stroll to check out the locality. We found the Tal-Kaptan, an Italian restaurant with loads of veggie offerings, several bars advertising free wifi and the local corner store for essential supplies. Well, I say essential supplies, our last swag bag consisted of fags, munchies and a six pack of Bud.

Once checked in, we retired to our room on the 5th floor and unpacked. The room is good, comfortable for 3 and a balcony overlooking the sea. The main road alongside the seafront is quite busy in the day but much quieter at night.

Temperatures are good with a gentle breeze, I think I’m going to like Malta.

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