Monthly Archives: November 2012

Shut your eyes, lie back, and think of England…..

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Shut your eyes, lie back and think of England (or the equivalent, listen to Radio 4 on Podcasts) I have reached the conclusion that the Vietnamese draw the curtains on the bus not so much because of the sun, though that’ s a consideration, but so they don’t have to see what’s happening on the road. But it’s like driving through the Lake District and showing no interest in the landscape.

Nga Trang has a beautiful beach and all the usual tourist bars and travel agents, with more signs and menus in Russian than English. It’s become a popular sunshine resort, only 7 hours from Vladivostok. Would you want to be there at this time of year? Three direct flights a week.

It was great diving and snorkelling, I went out twice on a dive boat. I was worried that it wouldn’t live up to what I’d seen in Thailand, but it was much better. Many more varieties of coral and fishes. I also had a “countryside trip”, on the back of a motorbike. It must be 45 years since I’ve ridden pillion. Mr Dong was a very careful driver, and we never went over 20kph. Saw lots and it was good to get away from the tourist hot-spots.

Vietnamese coffee is incredibly strong, maybe that explains the driving. If you are lucky enough to have it as the locals do, dripped through a little tin filter into a glass, sweet and thick, you get a glass of iced green tea with it. The coffee’s delicious, it has a slight vanilla, chocolatey aroma too.

From Nga Trang I went to a Quy Nhon. Not a European resort at all, nor even a Russian one!! A long beach with not a soul on it, though after work every one spills out, swims, used the exercise machines on the promenade, volleyball on the beach, football on the pavements (I’ve seen worse football watching The Robins….. Cheltenham’s team) and everything is suddenly very alive. There’s a large fishing fleet, including little coracles that are still used for fishing. No signs in English, no menus in English, so when I went to get something to eat it was point and hope.

After being really mean, ( it’s not worth it) and paying £6.00 for my room in Quy Nhon, I have splashed out (£30.00 a night B&B) and have a room that my house would fit into comfortably. The floor is highly polished teak, not the usual cold marble tiles, huge teak furniture and The Great Bed of Ware would look small beside what I slept in last night. From the balcony I’m sitting on I can see the wee swimming pool. This is Hoi An, a World Heritage site, a town largely made up of 18century merchants’ houses. I had a walk round yesterday and am going to buy a ticket today, so I can see inside everything. Tomorrow off to see My Son,( temples!!!!!) .

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North to Nga Trang

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Well this beats National Express. When the bus pulled into the bus station, my heart sank as I thought “it ‘s a night bus” . Not seats, but fitted out with about 15 bunks, upper and lower, three abreast. First you have to take your shoes off, and are given a bus-company bag to put them in! The seats are more like day beds, and you can lie down or sit, with your feet sticking out in front of you, a little space for your bag, shelf for food and drinks , and even a TV strategically placed so only about 3 passengers can see it. I will try to get a picture, but don’t want to upset my fellow travellers. Down side?? The low seats are at about floor level, so I’ll probably be stuck here for life and I suspect there’s no loo on board, but that’s probably not a bad thing. So time to relax for the next ten hours!!

The bus stops at Bus Company restaurants which have space to seat about 500 people, and serve cheap, basic food.( the loos vary, if lucky they’re western). I realised after the first stop, that you don’t even need to faff around with your shoe-bag, a bin of flip flops is provided as you disembark.

Being in the front lower “seat” I could see the dash board and a little screen on it…… No of course it wasn’t SATNAV…….just the DVD that was on, and the driver was watching it avidly. So probably a good thing we dragged along at about 40kph, though there were the usual sudden bursts of energy and overtaking. These DVDs which ran continuously, aren’t subtitled or dubbed, but just have quite a soft female voice-over, presumably telling the story, however when there are car chases or shoot outs (a regular feature) the volume overcame whatever I could find on my iPod.

For the first two hours we never really got into countryside, always some sort of habitation or industry. Eventually lots of rice paddies, which are intensely green, followed later by miles of orchards of dragon fruit. These are about 4 or 5 feet high and the branches look like huge Easter cactus. Then more rice, not much evidence of variety here. The villages are a lot more prosperous than in Cambodia, with substantial brick built houses, and neat gardens with crops of vegetables and rice.

Very soon we had mountains on our left. I’m no good at describing countryside but it is very beautiful. We didn’t actually see the sea till towards the end of the journey, and arrived well after dark.

Today there has been torrential rain ,with huge slate blue and black clouds. So much for my beach dream. But I managed about 2 minutes in the sea! See what tomorrow brings…….

Phnom Penh to Saigon

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The road from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh starts very impressively, smooth, flat, straight and wide enough for nearly everyone, but not the whole way. Once again air conditioned mini bus, so there was a great deal of overtaking going on, and when we actually got to a double bend sign, the driver thought he had hit lucky , was Justin Button, and had a chicane to negotiate. So the bumpy parts of the road were an odd relief. Lots of road works to “upgrade” the road, but that doesn’t stop things, you just bump more.

Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, is very pleasant, plenty of classic French colonial buildings, as well as 1930s and some art Deco apartments. The city is on a big river, with the Royal palace and lots of temples. There are huge government buildings, and the Central Market was built in the late 1920s. There’s one sky scraper being built! One Department store, but more like a market, and high high blocks of flats, which go back a long way and I guess half the rooms have no windows. picture below.

The road in front of the Palace is closed at the moment, so people can pay their respects to the King, he is lying in state, but not publicly, just a picture of the ornate coffin in a gold painted room in the palace. He was much revered, despite the rather bizarre history of his reign.

There was also an ASEAN ministers’ conference ( guessing that’s Association of South East Asian Nations) also Obama came to address them after being in Myanmar. So there were roads that you couldn’t go down as there were cavalcades of politicians driving along. I managed to be in the wrong place and have a policeman blow his whistle and shout at me!!!

So after three nights there, I took the fast boat to the border with Vietnam, 5 or 6 hours, lots of floating villages and fishermen, then hung around and caught a coach to Saigon another 7 hours. Best thing all day, when I checked into my hotel, no window, but who cares with aircon, but a BATH. Oh bliss!

Had a wander round yesterday, having trouble getting my head around the currency, cashed $100.00 and got over 2 million dongs. Was certainly ripped off by a cycle rickshaw and in the market, but just put it down to experience.

Ho Cho Minh City is a complete contrast to Cambodia, but then they’ve had longer to recover since their war. Sky scrapers and some very very expensive, chic shops, and hotels. Burberry, Chanel, Gucci, not fakes . Not the sort of communism the Americans were fighting.

I warned you that I would have more useless facts sooner or later. The population of Ho Chi Minh City is 10 million, and there are 6 million motorbikes, I think they all drove at me at once when trying to cross the road. About 1000 road deaths a year, mostly in the country where they drink Happy Water! rice wine. The authorities are obviously trying to do something here, as there are helpful green uniformed zebra crossing guides, they don’t stop the traffic, but I guess if too many tourists get squashed they will stop coming here.

Today I went to the Cu Chi Caves, the tunnels that the Viet Cong lived in to hide from the Americans and fight their guerrilla war. Well worth the visit.

Tomorrow off to Nga Trang, about 450km, so another 10 hour coach journey. (Eqivilant of national express this time…….not hairy scary) Hopefully a good bit of sea and some islands at the end of the trip.

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Volunteer Teacher

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Badly driven 4 wheel drives with Mum’s on mobiles is not a British phenominum outside schools, it’s just the same here!! Once you get the idea of how the traffic works, cycling is quite straight forward. No one seriously stops at junctions, but the traffic seems to meld into a new direction. Rule one, big rules the roads; rule two, never go so fast you need to use the brakes, nor so slowly that you need to stop. I have been cycling to the school there and back, twice a day. The pot- holed muddy roads with puddles that are big enough to have crocodiles at the bottom are a bigger danger than the main roads.

There’s not enough space in the state schools for children to go all day, so they go morning or afternoon. The children I am working with go to state school but come to ABC and Rice the other half of the day, rather than be on the streets either doing nothing or selling post cards etc. they have to be pretty poor to come to the school, and are encouraged by being” paid ” with 3 kilos of rice a month, so their parents don’t have to send them out to earn.

One or two will probably learn English sufficiently well to get a job in the tourism industry, from waiters to guides, but whether those who aspire to be doctors will have the chance, who knows……..

My role was to help with pronunciation and vocabulary. First lesson, by reading a book , which the children read back, other classes by supporting their teacher in much the same way. I’ ve enjoyed it but would find it hard to have done it for longer.

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Mr Blue, Bamboo Train and Boats

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Mr Blue was the tuk-tuk driver, who despite charging an exorbitant amount when I got off the bus in Battambang to the hotel, I paid to take me on a drive around the countryside the next day, forgetting to bargain for a price again!!

First we went to the bamboo train, this is only a tourist attraction but run along the track that used to be the main line from Thailand to Phnom Penh. It consists of a bamboo palette resting on the axels of a set of small train wheels, and is driven by a diesel motor. So you’re sitting fairly low to the ground where it is easy to see the rails , which are neither smooth nor parallel. The tracks runs ( thankfully) in a straight line for about 10 k through some villages, and flat flat countryside, to a village where there are brick kilns. Three beautifully built kilns, fuelled by rice husks.

What do you do when a train is coming in the opposite direction? Simple, passengers get off and your train is dismantled, two or more trains going in one direction, win over a single train in the other direction.

The trip round the countryside was very beautiful. Very few of the old wooden houses left. Here, when you do well and get rich, you build a new house out of modern non sustainable materials. Mr Blue thought the English were mad, when I explained it is the opposite and we aspire to a 300 year old house. I saw a village on the river where the exclusive business is drying fish, palette after palette of what looked like kippers lying in the sun to dry, some fish are smoked and they also make fish paste in the village, which goes into a great many dishes for flavour. It involves leaving fish to ferment for about three months, ( maybe I heard him wrong) and then doing various things to it. To my surprise it didn’t smell much. I must be getting acclimatised!

There were other industries, still done in the old way, making rice paper that is used for wrapping spring rolls, weaving, and drying thin strips on banana, 3 kilos can be sold to the shops for $1, that’s a lot of bananas and work.

I visited a temple that is now closed as it had been used by the Khmer Rouge, as a detention and torture centre, before slaughtering people, men, women children and babies. But I didn’t want to visit the caves that they threw people into, dead or alive, it didn’t matter to them. It seemed appropriate that it was Remembrance Day, these horrors should never be forgotten either.

The return journey to Siem Reap was on the boat, this was long and crowded , but included a few local people who had obviously been to Battambang to stock up on the goods that the shops in the local villages don’t have. The journey was along a river where there were lots of fishermen in their little dug out boats, and our boat weaved between them, so as not to get tangled in their nets( their livelihood). We then travelled along the top end of Tonle Sap lake (claimed by the Cambodians to be the largest lake in South East Asia) where there are many floating villages. The stronger houses are on stilts but the poorer ones are built on bamboo rafts. So every time a boat with its huge wake goes by their house rocks.

Before leaving Siem Reap , I will tell you a little about the school. Lunch break finished now, back to work!

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How time flies

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Having boarded the ferry at Rosslare and awaiting departure, I can but wonder where this last week has gone. It seems only yesterday the satnav was guiding through the highways of Ireland on route to Claremorris.

It has been a fantastic time catching up with the nine strong clan unseen for seven years, and some I was meeting for the first time. The newest member, Ariana is gorgeous and I think it’s safe to say we are now the best of friends. She is very lucky to have Rebecca as such a wonderful Mum.

Food played a big part of our week not least the oat balls made by Noah and Izabella. And Francesca spoilt us with home cooked vegetarian fare second to none. The twins, Cassie and Olivia, although ill were great. Olivia makes the perfect helper in the kitchen and we all shared numerous games of peg solitaire on the iPads. Cassie accompanied us to see Skyfall with her elder brother Lucas at the cinema at Castlebar. Lucas has really grown up although he has not lost his cheeky smile, something that will stand him in good stead with the ladies for years to come I’m sure. Finally we have Victoria who, like Lucas, has really grown up, blossoming into a lovely lady. I have watched her play tennis and listened to her play the recorder and loved every minute.

Aside from family, Claremorris is a chilled and friendly part of Ireland offering not only friendly smiles and a warm welcome but lovely vegetarian lunches and the best Guinness I have drunk. So much so even the Latvian ladies in Wardes pub looked Good! Quickest pair of beer goggles I have ever experienced.

We have walked, talked, wined and dined and now I find myself returning home relaxed, recharged and smiling.

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Stranded in Sisophon…

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Took a quick breather and leg stretch on a long bus journey, snap a photo, turn round and the bus was pulling away……..but was assured by a local that it would be back in 10 minutes. Well, 10 minutes in Asia can be long time……Might have been worse, could have been waiting for a Network Rail connection.

The bus was back in 20 minutes and on I went to Battambang.

Nothing like a bank holiday!! Especially one to celebrate independence from the French in 1953. So, I had a long weekend. Could have gone to Phnom Penh, but have heard that as the king is lying in state, ( he died in October, and the funeral will be in February, I presume embalming is a local skill much practiced) that some of the Royal Palace is not open. Hence the trip to Battambang.

As the Cambodians say,” Same, Same , but different”another French colonial city on a river. Unusual name for a restaurant, I think, reading the menu at the Write Rose Restaurant, only to notice next day when I went there for breakfast, that the sign outside says White Rose! And as for some of the typos on menus, you really wonder what you’re going to eat. Biggest difference is that there is not a huge area given over to bars and restaurants for travellers and tourists. One street for mobile phone shops, can they sell that many mobiles still? One for pharmacists, what a hypochondiacal people they must be. One for restaurants, and best street of all , salons where you can have a make over and get your outfit for weddings and other special events, along with the photographers’ shops that go with these occasions.

And weddings there were, they start at 5.30 a.m. Goodness knows what time the Bride has to get up to get ready. And finnish about midnight. Not only was this in the hotel two down from mine, but also two mornings running!!! The event takes place under a very colourful awning right across the street and the music and chanting are all broadcast on speakers across the neighbourhood. In addition to weddings, similarly noisy events were taking place in the town and countryside to celebrate the end of the wet season. Music and chanting , a huge meal, and the monks come along to bless the village and take back lots of food and goodies to keep themselves going.

You’ll have to wait for the next instalment of my bank holiday weekend…

Just a picture to give you a flavour of what I’m talking about.

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Emerald Isle road trip

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There is nothing better than waking up in the morning, packing a bag, jumping in the car and going for a road trip. By the time I left Cheltenham I had a full tank of gas, half a pack of baccy and I was wearing sunglasses.

My route took me through the Forrest of Dean, and with the seasons sun sitting low in the sky, the autumnal green and gold was warm and calming. As I strayed into the familiar territory of the heads of the valleys the sky turned grey and the autumn scenery was interrupted with the slender blades of wind turbines. They seem quite surreal.

Passing Pembroke the satnav decided to take the scenic route through small lanes winding up and over mountains until Fishguard harbour came into sight. The sea looked calm only gently swaying the few fishing boats moored in waiting.

The crossing was very smooth even though the captain announced before moving out that he would be using stabilisers. Must be a trainee captain. And now I get to set foot on the Emerald Isle for the first time, Ireland being the only country in these sceptres isles I have never visited before.

And finally I arrive in Claremorris after nearly 5 hours of driving through a mixture of dual carriageways and windy lanes. A few glasses of whiskey and it’s off to to bed before meeting the rest of the clan tomorrow. And Noah says I can walk to school with him tomorrow.

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Siem Reap

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After lots of sea, sand and snorkelling, good company and plenty of fresh seafood, I had a day’s travelling, more hairy scary driving, and am now in Siem Reap. Arriving here after dark and all I saw was a long road of monumental looking hotels full of air conditioned luxury coaches in their car parks. It all looked like something out of Hollywood , and all have Angkor somewhere in their name.

There’s a great market here, lots of the usual stuff, but some good fairtrade local art too, beautiful silk. Lots of “jewellery” stalls, they also change money, as the $ US is the main currency, with the local currency the subsidiary one , something like 5000 riel to the dollar, so all those noughts again.

One moment tat, the next you are in the food market, fruit and veg fine, but you don’t want to be in the meat and fish section late in the day as it’s getting a bit hot by then. And a man with a sewing machine who took up my trousers to make them into shorts for $2.00!!

A day is probably enough to find your way round Siem Reap, which left me a day free, so off I went at dawn (again) to see Angkor Wat. It’s so enormous it’s hard to take in, but I still prefer European Cathedrals which are more delicate and feel less claustrophobic. Like them it is probable that a lot of the stone work was originally painted, but then of course, the stone would have the soft colour of new sandstone, not black and polluted. Later on the day I went to another temple, which I much preferred, and got the tail end of the daylight.

So just waiting to be picked up by the school, first day back nerves, think i’ll by winging it.

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