Cooktown was pretty amazing. The main street looks like something out of the wild west, save for the sealed (tarmac) road. Our first port of call having driven through the main street was Grassy Hill. The drive was very steep, so much so it felt as though the ute may flip over backwards at times. On the advice of some descending visitors we parked and walked the last part due to a lack of parking at the top. The road was steep and it was very windy but we were rewarded with some spectacular views when we reached the top. A 360 degree panorama of the town, the river, the estuary and the ocean. Amazing.

Having spent some time taking in the views and trying not to be blown of the edge we returned to the town and went for a wander. In one of the buildings was a history of Cooktown maintained by the local ‘Enactment Society’. We went in and started reading one of the displays upon which a woman appeared from nowhere requesting 5 dollars each as they “have rent to pay”! Although it seemed we had strayed onto the set of Faulty Towers, we paid the entrance fee and continued with the tour. And it was very good with much of the exhibition backed by old photographs and artefacts. I’m not sure if Cooktown’s story is typical but it was interesting to see how the town came into being, how the local indigenous population we marginalised and abused. With the ensuing gold rush came a population explosion and then implosion when the gold seams dried up. At it’s height Cooktown had a population of over 4000 which reduced to less to 200. A real boom and bust.

With the historical bit done we had another wander and Wendy exhibited some hidden talents on the musical boat.

With Cooktown pretty much done we decided to head out to Archers Point not knowing quite what we would find there. Driving out of town we stopped at Natures Powerhouse, the Botanical Gardens. There were some interesting displays on native creatures including one on the Taipan, one of the worlds most venomous creatures and found in Australia. This was followed by a stroll through some lovely, tranquil gardens and not a taipan to be seen.

Archers Point was a lighthouse with a dirt track leading up to it. The views were again pretty spectacular and the dirt track separated off in several directions leading to numerous little coves and lookout points.

With time moving on we headed back to the campsite and had a couple of beers and the veggie pizza again! Wendy retired early and that was probably a good choice as the bar was dead save a Czech couple who stayed and chatted for a while. I too retired early (by my standards) opting for a good nights sleep before the long drive back.

The journey back was pretty good and there was more wildlife than on the way up. We had an adult kangaroo cross right in front of us. I’m glad they can hop fast cause, even with the roo bars on the front of the ute, he’d have made a serious impact. There was also a large eagle that swooped down onto the road and flew off with a snake in its talons. Unfortunately the only wild boar we saw were road kill.

This road trip has to be the single biggest realisation of Australia. We’ve only travelled a comparatively small distance but to be in the middle of nowhere, to have to rely on your own ability or that of complete strangers if things go wrong is quite something. And to be lumped together at the only watering hole for miles, drink at the bar with complete strangers as if you’ve know them all your life and knowing you’ll probably never see them again. Fantastic.

It’s 9 am in the morning, we have a full tank of gas, it’s sunny and I’m wearing sunglasses. Time for a road trip.

The plan is to drive up to a camp site called The Lions Den about 30k South of Cooktown, spend the next day in Cooktown and the surrounding area, another night at The Lions Den and then travel back down then next day. We took the inland route as we heard the coastal track was fairly rough around Cape Tribulation and, even though I would love some 4 wheel drive off road driving, I guess breaking down up there would not be good.

The drive up was amazing, it was 400k or thereabouts and some of the scenery was amazing. Huge long roads flanked by scrub forest, stunning mountain lookouts revealing vistas again of vast scrub forest and the occasional road kill serving up delicacies to the local eagle population.

I drove to start with initially covering familiar territory out through the tablelands and then into the scub. It was a good drive with hardly any traffic on the roads. Before I realised I’d hit Lakelands, about 300k of the journey covered. Time for a change of driver.

On arrival at The Lions Den we headed for the bar to check in and what a sight to greet my eyes. The walls and ceiling were covered by signatures, comments and musings of people who had previously passed through. On one side of the bar were notes keeping alive the bush bank tradition. People would write their name on money which is then pinned up behind the bar so they had some money for food, beer and a bed on their return. Now it seems to be more a tradition with a myriad of currencies replacing the native currency.

Having checked in we made our way to the Safari Lodge number 2, a wooden and canvas 8 berth tree house complete with balcony. Luxury, rain forest style. We settled in with a glass of wine and then headed for the bar to get something to eat. Unfortunately vegetarian was not one of the chef’s specialities however the veggie pizza with added jalapeños was good.

As the night grew on a core of travellers were left at the bar. Not your normal backpackers but seasoned 4 wheeled drive off readers heading either up the Cape or returning from it. Now that is serious travelling, the stories were good and I for one had a good night.

Next morning we had breakfast at the bar, mine comprising of egg and beans on toast and a long black coffee. The breakfast was ok but the coffee was very good. Then it was time for Cooktown.