Under Cretan waters

Posted on 27/08/2013 by Paul

So far the diving has been good. For the first trip I was collected from the hotel and taken to Pelagos dive centre. There I was introduced to Stephanos, the owner, who assembled my new regulators. Apparently I made a good choice for the latest addition to my kit.

As always, the centre was both friendly and professional. Whilst I checked my kit Sarah was supplied with fins, mask and snorkel. After a short wait in the the glorious Cretan sun everyone was good to go. We climbed aboard and set out on the calm blue sea to our site for the day.

Following the spectacular Cretan coastline on clear azure blue waters laying beneath a crystal clear Mediterranean sky, Stephanos at the helm, with his ruggedly tanned face and flowing blonde locks, only served to complement the most serene of settings. By the time the boat was moored to the buoy, a tranquility had raised the perfect mindset for the days dive.

Descending down over a rocky shelf it soon became apparent that this dive would not be illuminated with brightly coloured corals. The topography was however, quite spectacular. Then, 10 minutes into the dive, fish appeared from nowhere and everywhere, from the tiniest damsel to large dusky groupers. It was at first quite curious until I realised our dive master and guide, Manolis, was carrying food. This is not something you would normally do but, giving the almost barren landscape, I guess it is the only way.

On returning to the boat I was greeted by a buoyant Sarah who had seen jellyfish, a star fish and a turtle. We, despite our expensive rigs, had not.

The following days dive, with same dive centre, was equally as good and exhilarating. Additionally I was for the first time properly weighted for the conditions carrying just 4 kilos. On returning to the dive centre I asked why the landscape was so barren and the answer was overfishing. It seems strange that such a tourist destination does not have marine reserves or sunken wrecks to produce artificial reefs.

And so to the next dive centre, Crete Happy Divers, a local Greek concern. I appeared with my kit and Nikos, my guide to be, started to assemble my kit whilst I filled in the obligatory paperwork. On pulling each piece of kit from my dive bag he commented on the brand, Aqualung, Aqualung, Aqualung until he reached my wetsuit. “Mares”, he said, “why?”. When I told him it was a good suit for me he smiled. These are good people and this was going to be a good dive.

We headed out at a fairly fast pace on a reasonably large speed boat following the coastline much further than before. On mooring to the buoy, the overhanging rock, soaked in the afternoon sun looked like a backdrop to a 1970’s Sofia Loren movie.

Once in the water, the landscape revealed even more barren beauty, with rocky shelfs, small walls and huge drop-offs. Then came the tinny clicking of Nikos calling us over. As we gathered to see, he coaxed an octopus out from his rocky hideaway. As the ink cleared Nikos pushed him away only to have him push his tentacles together and dart back into his hand, several times. Returning the octopus to his home we continued with the dive.

40 minutes into the dive, one diver was out of air and using Nikos’ secondary reg. He was returned to the boat along with 2 other divers, also low on air. We continued once they were safely returned and revisited the octopus. This time he was calmed with a constant stroking of his head until he settled, wrapped around Nikos’ wrist, and camouflaged himself to the colours of the wetsuit he clung to.

Returning the octopus once again, we swam through the safety stop, up through an arch and back to the boat. Checking my dive computer I realised I had finally reached my goal, breaking 60 minutes on a single tank.

The following days dive was equally as good although no octopus and I learnt a little more about the Cretan waters. The older man running the dive centre, whose name escapes me, has been diving since 1970. At over 600 dives a year that is some experience. He told me the underwater landscape had been shaped by years of Mediterranean storms and fishing with dynamite, indiscriminate and far worse than overfishing.

Each time I dive it is totally different, so many fantastic people and always new experiences. This time I also met new goals, down to 4 kilos and breaking an hour on a tank of gas. What a way to while away the days.

Back in the blue

Posted on 07/04/2013 by Paul

Man flu dissipated and Liam eager to try a dive, we were collected from the hotel after an early breakfast along with fellow guest Kerry we met the night before. The transportation was a truck, not exactly luxury but perfect for carrying the scuba tanks and other dive gear.

At the shop we descended the narrow stairs to a very cool basement to get fitted with our gear. I had brought my wetsuit but 3mm was nowhere near enough, I needed a full 5mm and a 5mm shortie on top. It was snug.

With everyone sorted we piled into the trucks now loaded with tanks, assorted dive gear and even more travellers to brave the Maltese roads leading towards the Gozo ferry terminal. This was to be our dive site.

All kitted out and buddied up I waived to Liam who was going through his basic training with the instructor and walked down to the entry point, fins in hand. Sitting on the edge to put my fins on was ok but the weight of the gear combined with my lack of fitness, standing was impossible without the help of my buddie. Once up I took the giant stride into the water, the cold shock taking my breath away and inflating my BCD was awkward. Still I was here to get used to my new kit. Once I calmed my breathing and found my inflator it was time to descend though the jellyfish and head out along the wall leading to the wreck.

The wreck was only a small tug boat but I didn’t care, I was back in the water. On the way there was one of the biggest groupers I have ever seen, sheltering half way down the wall watching these strange bubble-blowing creatures glide past.

The wreck was ok although my air consumption wasn’t, a combination of the cold and unfamiliar gear meant I was using it fast. We headed back from the wreck and I had to concentrate to my buoyancy at the safety stop. This wasn’t helped by the jellyfish, pretty as they were. Rising to the surface, one stray tentacle brushed my top lip giving me an annoying stinging feeling and slight swelling. This dive was not one of my finest moments.

Liam however seemed to be doing ok. He was still in the water and as I made my way out I saw him deflate his BCD and disappear from sight. Kerry on the other hand struggled with her breathing, feeling too restricted in her gear and had thrown the towel in. Liam appeared from the water moments later rocking his hand from side to side. He had problems clearing his mask, panicked and took in a mouthful of sea water. His diving was done for the day.

I was determined to get a better dive and listened to the next briefing with intent. It was another wreck with a 5 minute swim without reference. This time we walked into the water, put our fins on a swam out into the blue. The cold didn’t affect me as I was expecting it and once surrounded by nothing but clear blue water it was fantastic. No floor, no surface, no rock wall, just blue.

As the back of the wreck came into view, there was a large, square opening soon illuminated by the touches of the divers who were going inside. We swam around the outside finding plenty of fish of all shapes and colours, including two grumpy-looking lion fish. The front of the boat had a mounted gun complete with shells.

Completing the tour of the ship I was again towards the rear of the boat when I experienced what I believe may be called narcosis. A bit of a buzz tinged with very mild claustrophobia. I wasn’t overly deep but both dives were below 30 meters. Rising a little alleviated the effect and my attention now focused on the white anemone waving from the mast. Back through the blue to the safety stop I saw grass on the bottom sparkling with bright light which turned out to be small disc- shaped fish weaving in and out and reflecting the light.

Back on dry land and I was buzzing. Two very different dives had taken me deeper than i had gone before, experienced the blue like never before and been stung by my first jellyfish. I had also got used to my new kit quicker than I expected.

Drawing to a close

Posted on 06/09/2012 by Paul

Every time I wander out in Pattaya there seems to be something new that I haven’t seen before. Walking round to buy a few bits and pieces there were new stalls, shops and even whole roads that I hadn’t come across before. And now is the time for bartering, a somewhat strange concept to a Westerner like me. But I had a go and it was good although no matter how much I haggled the price down I always came away feeling I’d lost the duel. Save for the last encounter where the price was written on the back of the label, around half the initial asking price. Had a good deal there I think.

So shopping done for now it’s time for another couple of days under the waves. The first day was ok, met some really nice folks on the boat and got to dive with the boss but again the visibility wasn’t too good. For the second day we went out to the Hardeep wreck of the Koh Samaesan. Apparently it is an Indonesian steamship requisitioned by the Japanese during World War II and sunk by Allied bombing in 1942.

We drifted out to the marker buoy, descended the barnacle covered chain to the sea bed and followed a line to the ship. It was pretty good, fairly good visibility and plenty to see. The ascent was more interesting with the current throwing you round a fair bit. After the 3 minute safety stop at 6 metres, and now with almost no visibility due to the current, my instructor motioned to release the line. We just floated gently in the current and when we hit the surface there was the boat. It was amazing to just drift with no visual reference at all.

The second dive of the day was coral just around the corner of the islands head and it was quite spectacular. The corals were good and the fish varied from shoaling yellowtails and angry little pink Anemonefish to some large butterfly fish and a very curious remora at the safety stop. A very good dive to end on and I think I’ve learnt as much diving here in Thailand as I did doing my courses out on the Great Barrier Reef.

To finish of the day we had a couple of beers at a Swiss bar just down the road before heading to an Italian restaurant on Beach Road that brew their own beer, and very nice it was too. Then it was back to the Boxing Roo, stopping off briefly at a club on the way back.

A very good few days.

No penetration allowed

Posted on 02/09/2012 by Paul

Saturday started with an early rise and breakfast at a French restaurant in Jomtien before heading to the dive shop for a couple more excursions under the waves. Phil was also diving along with a couple of his work colleagues.

These two dives were old US war ships given to the Thai navy and sunk to for artificial reefs. This would be my first wreck dive and I’m not quite sure how it will compare to coral dives.

After the dive brief we kitted up and began the line decent to around 26 metres. With visibility limited to 6 metres there were no reference points on the way down but once we got to the bottom the ship came slowly into view. There was little current so it was easy to move around and look at things. And there was quite a lot to see if you could find it. Due to the low visibility we had to stay close to the instructor, John, but after looking at some colourful Nudibranches I looked up to see John and Phil swimming off. So I caught up with them just as they descended into a square hatch. Now I had a quandary. As I am not trained for penetrative wreck diving i knew i shouldn’t go in but John and Phil had gone in. I was just about to follow when I felt a sharp tug on my fin. It was John. I was following the wrong group!

The second wreck dive was different as the visibility dropped to 2 metres max and the current was a rising 50 for the ascent. As we waited a the 3 metre safety stop I could feel my mask being lifted and had to angle my head to prevent it being ripped off. It also made the exit from the water interesting! Two other divers attempted a drift around the bow of the wreck to the bottom of the line. They missed it and we’re swept away. The boat spotted their marker about 500 metres from the boat and they were safely picked up.

Both dives were good and I would like to do some more wreck diving but with better visibility and less divers. Overcrowding does not make for good diving.

In the evening we took a motorbike taxi up to Jomtein to eat Italian but unfortunately it was closed. Mexican was a good second choice. We then headed for a stroll down Pattiya’s infamous Walking Street, so called as it is closed to traffic in the evening. It was busy even through the evening was young, most of the bars and restaurants stay open until at least 4am. With so many bars and clubs it must be time for a beer or two after such a busy day.

Go with the flow

Posted on 31/08/2012 by Paul

A few days spent in Pattaya now and the initial culture shock has gone. It really is something to see all round and the food is great even for a vegetarian!

The plan had been to go down to Koh Kood for a couple of days but the dive shop i was hoping to use is closed until October due to heavy rains. This probably means both Koh Kood and Koh Chang are fairly inaccessible and, even if I could get out, there would be no point going in the water. I was half expecting this. So a quick call to the Mermaid Dive Centre here in Pattaya and I was picked up at 8 this morning at the top of the road for a days diving at some nearby islands.

It was a really good dive trip, very different to the Great Barrier Reef but well worth it. There were quite a lot of fish around although I didn’t ID many. I did spot my first Moray Eel and there was a lovely Blue Spotted String Ray sheltering under some coral. Phil tells me they taste quite nice but I was happy to just stop a while and watch.

The most amazing thing was the current on the second dive as I have not dived in current before. It was rising 40 which to me felt quite strong. But hey, just go with the flow as seems to be the way here in Thailand.

Hopefully tomorrow I will be doing a couple of wreck dives. Can’t wait.

Advanced Open Water (day 3)

Posted on 19/08/2012 by Paul

This is the last day of diving with 3 scheduled dives before we head back to Cairns. All three dives were on Flynn Reef, the first at the Pools and the other two at Coral Gardens.

The first dive of the day was at 6.30am just as the sun rose above the horizon, still the best way to wake up in the morning. This was a good dive and we only strayed off course once! We saw a few barracuda circling something on the sand, a couple of leisurely turtles having breakfast and a couple of metre long white tip sharks. The white tips were amazing, the first swimming underneath us and the second swimming past us to the side. Amazing.

Back in from the dive and it was time for breakfast whilst the moved the boat, a quick briefing and back in the water. This site was amazing and, once you’ve seen it, you really appreciate the name Coral Gardens. It was absolutely stunning. We strayed slightly of course this time, ending up in some very shallow waters, maybe a metre and a half in places. This was too shallow to dive but the Corals were beautiful. And the site was teaming with fish from huge parrotfish and wrasses to tiny damsels and colourful butterfly fish. And of course the now obligatory turtle.

Back on the boat we had time for a quick snack and dive briefing and then back in the water for the final dive of the trip. Unfortunately my buddy wasn’t diving due to a problem with his ear so I joined a French girl and American chap for what turned out to be a really relaxed dive. And the spot of the day were my first Nudibranches, a couple of blue ones and a couple of yellow ones. This was such a slow, laid back dive it was fantastic. And you really do get to see more this way. After 45 minutes diving we surfaced without getting lost to calls from Jo the cook. Lunch was served.

After such a relaxed dive it felt like stepping into a war zone on the boat all the kit was rinsed and packed away. Lunch had to be served, eaten and the kitchen tidied away ready for the trip back. Although it was now sunny, the water was a little choppy on the way back but the engines were cut about an hour into the journey and we were treated to the sight of 3 humpback whales about 40 metres away. What a way to end diving on the Great Barrier Reef.

Advanced Open Water (day 2)

Posted on 16/08/2012 by Paul

What a fantastic day. In the water at 7.30 for the first of 4 dives, and the sun came out to say hello too.

This first dive was the penultimate speciality dive for advanced certification, the deep dive. We went down to around 26m, did a few checks and then had a slow swim looking for fish and stuff. The fish seemed more curious down here, coming much closer, which meant you could see them much better. A real eye-balling on both sides. With a relaxing swim round for the ascent it was out of the water for breakfast.

The last speciality dive was a free choice and there was a split decision. Me and my buddy chose under water naturalist whilst the Dutch couple chose photography. This turned out to be really cool as our instructor led us to some cool spots, we found the interesting fish/corals that we ID’d and then we had photographs of some of the stuff we needed to look up. We saw another turtle and a metre-long giant clam but one of the best finds was a wobbegong shark tucked away in the coral.

Last dive for the certificate completed and the four of us are now certified Advanced Open Water divers. Cool.

Next dive was a fun dive as we have now completed the AOW course and we got a little lost. Hard to believe as navigation was part of the certificate! But it’s ok, we saw loads of cool stuff and made it back to the boat with air to spare. Then we found out the last dive of the day, the night dive, was in the same place! But we didn’t get lost and managed our safety stop without a reference point with reef sharks gliding past our fins. Big tick for buoyancy control.

I have to say this as been a fab couple of days and there are still 3 dives to come. The first one is at 6.30am, sunrise tomorrow morning. The best way to wake up.

Advanced Open Water (day 1)

Posted on 15/08/2012 by Paul

Another early start meeting at the dive shop in Cairns just before 6.20am ready for the 5 minute drive to the boat. The weather looked ok but once out of the harbour the boat began to roll a bit. This was not as smooth as last time and about half way out to the reef the sky turned a dark grey, a similar colour to the water! There were no humpbacks this time but we did get a brief sighting of some dolphins.

By the time we arrived at the outer reef it was raining and still a little choppy, but that’s ok, you don’t notice the rain when you’re in the water. So breakfast and safety talk done it’s time to kit up and our first dive was a fun dive. I had an American chap for a buddy and we had a nice slow dive around one of the reef formations. It was nice with plenty to see including quite a few barracuda.

Fun dive over and our stomachs filled by Jo, the cook for the trip, it was time for our first speciality dive for the advanced certificate, namely Peek Performance Buoyancy. To say our instructor had us jumping through hoops is no exaggeration, he literally did, well swimming. This, as well as meditating in mid air, was really quite cool.

The next speciality dive was navigation using the compass. Now I have to say navigation is not my strong point at the moment but using the compass is pretty groovy. Between that and measuring distance by kick cycles I think I did ok.

That left the last dive of the day, the night dive. And it was pretty good. We practiced navigation and buoyancy and then just had a mooch around opting a ray and the largest shark I have seen to date. Pretty damn cool.

There also seems to be a good crowd on board so I think all things being equal I should be in for a good trip

Scuba Open Water (day 5)

Posted on 05/08/2012 by Paul

Dive 1
What a way to start the day, jumping into the ocean at 6.30 in the morning, just as the sun has risen. Saw our friendly green turtle again as he was munching on some coral. Saw loads of different fish but ID’ing them is quite hard. I’d see one and think wow, I’ll look that up when I get back to the boat. Then I see something else and again and again. In the end I’ve seen so much I can’t remember enough details to ID much at all!

We are now moving to our final reef site for the last 2 dives of this trip, Tracy’s on Flynn Reef.

Dive 2
This was an awesome dive for spotting life under the waves. First off we found Nemo, actually a real Clown Anemonefish. We then moved around and about seeing Reef and White Tip sharks, several Blue Spotted Stingray of varying ages. These were just the actual fish I managed to ID. The were loads more of all shapes and sizes including huge sweet lips and parrotfish to tiny, colourful dudes darting around the coral. Fantastic dive.

Dive 3
This is the last dive of this trip, then it’s dinner and head back to Cairns. This dive was quite shallow, at times only a couple of metres deep but the coral was spectacular and I saw some of the biggest Bumphead Parrottfish yet. Blue green in colour and absolutely magnificent. On the way back the ocean revealed on of it’s best kept secrets, Unicorns do exist and we saw it! A Whitemargin Unicornfish. Magical.

I am quite sad to be going back to shore now but, being realistic, I think my body could do with the recovery time!

Fish ID’d: Threadfin butterfly Fish, Whitemargin Unicornfish, White Tip Shark, Clown Anemonefish, Blue Spotted Stingray

Scuba Open Water (day 4)

Posted on 04/08/2012 by Paul

Dive 1, 7.22am
Really good dive, used up pretty much all of my air meaning I broke the QLD regulations! You have to hit the surface with 50 bar left in your tank. I had 25.

Had a cool dive, really beginning to enjoy myself, just wish we could stop with the mask flooding/clearing skills training. Saw lots of cool stuff but the other group of OWD actually saw a shark just resting on the bottom. Jealous. We are going to move site again soon, somewhere close to sightings of a whale shark a couple of days ago. Now that would be something.

Dive 2, 11am
Again a good dive and again I used up my air really quickly but we are now certified divers and the last of the OWD skills have been completed. They were navigation by compass both on the surface and under water, hovering and mask removal. I hate mask removal but at least I can do it if needed. I didn’t ID any new fish but there were loads including some sort of clam about a metre long, several angel fish and loads more. Next up we get a fun dive. Yay.

Dive 3, 3pm
First fun dive with buddy. It was cool. We had to navigate ourselves and kinda got a bit lost, we turned right but should have turned left after swimming through ‘the gates’. This detour used both of our air quicker than it should have and it tired me out. I’m really starting to feel how dive fit you need to be. My ankles, thighs and stomach are beginning to to ache. But it’s all good. We have a night dive left to do and then 3 dives tomorrow..

Dive 4, 7.30pm
Night dive done and dusted and I have to say it was probably one of the best dives so far. Apart from the fact it was dark save for a hand torch, we came up to the 3 metre safety stop to find grey reef sharks circling just under the boat. At times they were no more than a couple of metres away. Wow, I’ve swam with sharks at night. Awesome.

Fish ID’d: Elephant Trunk Fish, Lizard Fish, Giant Clam, Green Turtle, Moorish Idol, grey Reef Shark

Travelling in style

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