Go with the flow

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A few days spent in Pattaya now and the initial culture shock has gone. It really is something to see all round and the food is great even for a vegetarian!

The plan had been to go down to Koh Kood for a couple of days but the dive shop i was hoping to use is closed until October due to heavy rains. This probably means both Koh Kood and Koh Chang are fairly inaccessible and, even if I could get out, there would be no point going in the water. I was half expecting this. So a quick call to the Mermaid Dive Centre here in Pattaya and I was picked up at 8 this morning at the top of the road for a days diving at some nearby islands.

It was a really good dive trip, very different to the Great Barrier Reef but well worth it. There were quite a lot of fish around although I didn’t ID many. I did spot my first Moray Eel and there was a lovely Blue Spotted String Ray sheltering under some coral. Phil tells me they taste quite nice but I was happy to just stop a while and watch.

The most amazing thing was the current on the second dive as I have not dived in current before. It was rising 40 which to me felt quite strong. But hey, just go with the flow as seems to be the way here in Thailand.

Hopefully tomorrow I will be doing a couple of wreck dives. Can’t wait.

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Night time Pattaya style

After having a couple of beers and a few games of pool in the Roo, Phil and I headed out into the still hot evening. First stop, the all veggie Thai restaurant I failed to find earlier and turning the corner onto Pattaya Tai there it was. Looking like a little cafe we entered the strangely named “Five Star Tai Restaurant” and sat down to look at the menu.

The menu was a huge A4 ring binder with so much choice and all veggie. We picked a couple of dishes each to share and wow, it was something else. There was almost to much to eat but we managed! And it only came to 300 Bart, about a days wages for a Thai.

Stomachs loaded we headed off for a walk down some of the side roads I had skirted past earlier. The first thing that struck me was the signs, it was neon city overload. Every bar and club had groups of girls or ladyboys outside. There job I guess is to get you in to buy drinks by paying you complements. I had been informed I would be called handsome man and this is the norm. I was I’ll informed as it turned out. I walked down the street to calls of “long hair, long hair, I like long”.

It would have been rude not to call into a couple of clubs for curiosity if nothing else. As we approached the first club the bouncer pulled aside the black curtain and we walked straight in. We were ushered straight to a small table facing the dancing tables and drinks were ordered. Maybe I’m getting old but the girls didn’t seem old enough to be working there although the Thai authorities are apparently quite strict and all girls have to be over 21. And as for me being old, not by the standards of some of the clientele. There were some quite old guys in there with young Thai girls on their arms watching the show.

We had a couple of drinks and moved on.

The next club was pretty much the same although the music was a bit better! Scantily clad girls dancing on tables hoping for drinks to be bought. After a few more beers we moved on again.

Lots of calls from the girls/boys continued up the street and the occasional one coming to stand right in front of us. Next port of call was an English pub for a quite beer and a decent toilet. After the hustle bustle of the streets and the clubs we had been in it seemed really flat.

With Phil having work in the morning we headed back towards the Roo and parted company, I opted for a few more beers and a couple of games of pool before retiring.

All in all a good night and, although really not my scene today has been quite an experience. And I’m sure I have only just scratched the surface of Pattaya.

Tomorrow is time for the camera as there are just so many photo opportunities here.

Time to wander

Ok, with the pub now open, a couple go beers under my belt and directions to the nearest chemist it’s time for the off. First step, cross the road and there is no other way than to go for it. My strategy, avoid the big stuff and hope the little stuff goes round me. It seems to work.

My route is just go round the block and hopefully find the all veggie Thai restaurant Phil mentioned somewhere on route. Just round the block turned out to be quite a stroll, and a noisy one at that. But more than the noise, you kind of expect that in a city, it was the smells. The open drainage covers do not have a pleasant odour and I’m guessing there is sewage going into these. And then there is the traffic fumes. But in amongst this were explosions laundry drying and food cooking. All in all quite a sensory experience.

So the route is Pattaya 3 to Pattaya Klang down to Pattaya Beach and back up Pattaya Tai. And what a route it was. As before there was every kind of shop and stall but now they were walking up. And it got busier as I moved down Central (Klang) towards the beach. And those damn taxis confused me too. At first I thought they were beeping their funny little horns because I, or someone else, was in the way. But no, they’re touting for business.

Having reached the beach road I was met with a packed sea view. The beach was covered in parasol covered loungers. And when I say parasols we’re talking the size of the pub umbrellas back home in the beer gardens. So big and tightly packed that most of the sand was in shade for the whole stretch, a shame as where the light did stray through the sand looked almost white. And the sea wasn’t much better with boats and ships and jet skis all over the place. Some of the boats, mainly out near the island, looked quite different. I’m guessing these are Thai boats.There were huge lines of buoy makers I assume to separate swimmers from the jet skis. I’m not quite sure what the marine life thought of it all but I didnt fancy taking a dip.

Moving on down the Beach road there were quite a few hustlers of varying nationalities, age and genders all asking to a moment to take a survey. Then there were the suit sellers armed with their glossy portfolio.

By the end of Beach road the heat was starting to get to me, what is it they say about mad dogs and English men? So I headed on the last leg back up Pattaya Tai, trying to stay in the shade as much as possible. And no sign of the restaurant.

By the end of my little wander I was very hot, quite tired and having a near sensory meltdown with so much to take in. And this is out of season, a quite time as the locals put it. I headed for the house to chill for a while. Then after more sun block and a few bottles of water I headed to the Roo for a beer and to meet Phil who would be home from work shortly.

Then I guess my Pattaya insight will deepen as the night beckons.

Crazy roads and heat

Woke up fairly early and had a steady morning, unpacked, had breakfast, showered, all the normal stuff. Then it was time to venture outside so I dressed like a tourist but with my wardrobe I have no other choice. I was hoping that this indoor sticky heat would desist once outside in the open air.

So, kitted out in shorts, thongs (translation: flip flops) and a light summer shirt that now feels thick and heavy I left the building. At first it was quite nice, hotter but not so humid. That lasted for about 2 minutes as the temperature here is about 31-32. I could feel the rays burning so I aimed myself down Pattaya 3 in search of a 7 eleven where I could by some factor 30 and a bottle of cold water. But no such store appeared. There were bike shops, bars, massage parlours and strange bike stalls with umbrellas selling a whole manner of dead sticky stuff but no 7 eleven.

I could feel the sun starting to burn so I thought I take a walk back on the other side which seemed more shaded and look for Phil’s local, the Boxing Roo. I guessed they’d speak a form of English so I could find a the place to get sun block for the price of a beer or two.

Trying to cross the road proved impossible, maybe I should have just gone for it but I wasn’t carrying my travel insurance card. Staying on the same side wasn’t that safe either with step through scooters taking short cuts on the pavement and expecting pedestrians to avoid them.

I got back to the Boxing Roo and it hadn’t opened yet, it was only 11.45am. I new i had to get out of the sun so I headed round the corner for home. That hot and humid house now felt like walking into an ice box, it was lovely. I shall wait a bit for the Roo to open then venture out again.

Bangkok: A Day Late

Now finally on my way to Thailand although a day later than expected! I should really learn to set my alarm properly.

With my flights rescheduled I had a relaxed day in Cairns. Last night was spent eating falafel overlooking the harbour and out to sea with the red and green airport lights glowing in the distance. There were also few birds that looked like white pelicans cruising the harbour waters now the tide was in.

The flight to Sydney was ok with plenty of space on the plane. This was followed by a 3 hour wait which isn’t that long, just time for a mocha and a chapter in the book before joining the long queue at customs.

The Bangkok flight was actually ok as I had an isle seat with nobody to the other side. Watched The Avengers, Prometheus and most of Battleship. And I finished my second book of the holiday! The ride was a bit bumpy in places especially over the Java Sea but it was ok although the woman sitting across the isle from me had white knuckles from gripping her seat belt. The only down side was they still didn’t have me down as a veggie for the meals but hey, it worked out in my favour in the end.

Got through Bangkok airport ok even though the customs guy wasn’t too keen on my passport photo. Well I have news for him, I’m not that keen on it either but it will soon be time for a new one. Phil was waiting at the meeting point and we wandered off for the hour or so drive to Pattaya with intermittent downpours and thunderstorms. Not sure how good the diving is going to be but we’ll see.

Time for a few beers and a look forward to exploring the colourful streets tomorrow.

A Quiet Day

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Today was always going to be an odd day as my time in Australia is growing to an end and will be my last night here at Gibson Road.

The day was slow to start with a coffee or two and a read of the last chapter of my book. Then a cooked breakfast and shower led to the start of the afternoon. If we were going to do stuff then it was now or never as we had a BBQ to attend at 5pm.

So into the ute and off down the road towards Josephine Falls. When we arrived there were a few Brits around a couple of rented VW camper vans. I remember thinking to myself “I hope they’re on their way out”.

We strolled up a Tarmac path curving through native rain forest until the path presented a fork. We took the lower pool to start with and it was lovely. The constant sound of the waterfall laid an auditory backdrop to one of the most crystal clear waterfalls I think I have seen.

I clambered over a few rocks to get a better angle for some photos leaving only Wendy at the shores edge. Having taken the shots I turned to see half a dozen Brits having deserted their vans unpacking beers, stripping to swimmers and heading noisily for the water. You can’t beat Brits abroad, especially when they’re having fun.

We continued on up to see the mid section and the top pool, leaving the Brits to enjoy. Unfortunately these two higher sections suffered from health and safety overkill. Whilst we could enjoy the view there was no clambering over rocks or feeling the cold water rushing over your feet.

With the sights and sounds of Josephine experienced it was time to head for the ute and move on to Babinda Boulders, a place with Aboriginal legend and a ghost similar to a siren that woos men to a watery grave.

I didn’t see any ghosts, although I was quite tired upon leaving which may have been from fighting of the siren. What I did see we’re huge boulders lining the water course. They were pitted with with quite large cylindrical holes. It was clear to see this could be a dangerous place in the rainy season however it had a natural beauty, a tranquility amongst the rushing waters. It was, like Josephine Falls, quite a peaceful place away from the tourists.

Time was rushing our lazy day and it was soon time to head home with a few photo calls on the way. Once we had booked our accommodation for tomorrow and I had finally declared myself veggie to Qantas it was time to move for the BBQ.

The BBQ turned out to be nothing of the sort. It was a 3 course meal that was way over the top and, although excellent food, I ended up eating far too much of the wrong type of food. I think I put on half a dozen kilos in a couple of hours!

The evening was good but had to be cut short as I needed to get back and pack my suitcase. We are off to Yungaburra market tomorrow and then staying over in Cairns ready for my early morning trip to Bangkok. I will be sad to leave here but I’m keen to experience Thailand. As they say, when one door closes another one opens.

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Cooktown and Home

Cooktown was pretty amazing. The main street looks like something out of the wild west, save for the sealed (tarmac) road. Our first port of call having driven through the main street was Grassy Hill. The drive was very steep, so much so it felt as though the ute may flip over backwards at times. On the advice of some descending visitors we parked and walked the last part due to a lack of parking at the top. The road was steep and it was very windy but we were rewarded with some spectacular views when we reached the top. A 360 degree panorama of the town, the river, the estuary and the ocean. Amazing.

Having spent some time taking in the views and trying not to be blown of the edge we returned to the town and went for a wander. In one of the buildings was a history of Cooktown maintained by the local ‘Enactment Society’. We went in and started reading one of the displays upon which a woman appeared from nowhere requesting 5 dollars each as they “have rent to pay”! Although it seemed we had strayed onto the set of Faulty Towers, we paid the entrance fee and continued with the tour. And it was very good with much of the exhibition backed by old photographs and artefacts. I’m not sure if Cooktown’s story is typical but it was interesting to see how the town came into being, how the local indigenous population we marginalised and abused. With the ensuing gold rush came a population explosion and then implosion when the gold seams dried up. At it’s height Cooktown had a population of over 4000 which reduced to less to 200. A real boom and bust.

With the historical bit done we had another wander and Wendy exhibited some hidden talents on the musical boat.

With Cooktown pretty much done we decided to head out to Archers Point not knowing quite what we would find there. Driving out of town we stopped at Natures Powerhouse, the Botanical Gardens. There were some interesting displays on native creatures including one on the Taipan, one of the worlds most venomous creatures and found in Australia. This was followed by a stroll through some lovely, tranquil gardens and not a taipan to be seen.

Archers Point was a lighthouse with a dirt track leading up to it. The views were again pretty spectacular and the dirt track separated off in several directions leading to numerous little coves and lookout points.

With time moving on we headed back to the campsite and had a couple of beers and the veggie pizza again! Wendy retired early and that was probably a good choice as the bar was dead save a Czech couple who stayed and chatted for a while. I too retired early (by my standards) opting for a good nights sleep before the long drive back.

The journey back was pretty good and there was more wildlife than on the way up. We had an adult kangaroo cross right in front of us. I’m glad they can hop fast cause, even with the roo bars on the front of the ute, he’d have made a serious impact. There was also a large eagle that swooped down onto the road and flew off with a snake in its talons. Unfortunately the only wild boar we saw were road kill.

This road trip has to be the single biggest realisation of Australia. We’ve only travelled a comparatively small distance but to be in the middle of nowhere, to have to rely on your own ability or that of complete strangers if things go wrong is quite something. And to be lumped together at the only watering hole for miles, drink at the bar with complete strangers as if you’ve know them all your life and knowing you’ll probably never see them again. Fantastic.

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Road Trip to Cooktown

It’s 9 am in the morning, we have a full tank of gas, it’s sunny and I’m wearing sunglasses. Time for a road trip.

The plan is to drive up to a camp site called The Lions Den about 30k South of Cooktown, spend the next day in Cooktown and the surrounding area, another night at The Lions Den and then travel back down then next day. We took the inland route as we heard the coastal track was fairly rough around Cape Tribulation and, even though I would love some 4 wheel drive off road driving, I guess breaking down up there would not be good.

The drive up was amazing, it was 400k or thereabouts and some of the scenery was amazing. Huge long roads flanked by scrub forest, stunning mountain lookouts revealing vistas again of vast scrub forest and the occasional road kill serving up delicacies to the local eagle population.

I drove to start with initially covering familiar territory out through the tablelands and then into the scub. It was a good drive with hardly any traffic on the roads. Before I realised I’d hit Lakelands, about 300k of the journey covered. Time for a change of driver.

On arrival at The Lions Den we headed for the bar to check in and what a sight to greet my eyes. The walls and ceiling were covered by signatures, comments and musings of people who had previously passed through. On one side of the bar were notes keeping alive the bush bank tradition. People would write their name on money which is then pinned up behind the bar so they had some money for food, beer and a bed on their return. Now it seems to be more a tradition with a myriad of currencies replacing the native currency.

Having checked in we made our way to the Safari Lodge number 2, a wooden and canvas 8 berth tree house complete with balcony. Luxury, rain forest style. We settled in with a glass of wine and then headed for the bar to get something to eat. Unfortunately vegetarian was not one of the chef’s specialities however the veggie pizza with added jalapeƱos was good.

As the night grew on a core of travellers were left at the bar. Not your normal backpackers but seasoned 4 wheeled drive off readers heading either up the Cape or returning from it. Now that is serious travelling, the stories were good and I for one had a good night.

Next morning we had breakfast at the bar, mine comprising of egg and beans on toast and a long black coffee. The breakfast was ok but the coffee was very good. Then it was time for Cooktown.

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Gibson Road

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This area of Australia is not what the stereotypical images lodged in my brain had led me to expect. Much of the low lying land has been cleared for agriculture. This is a big farming area of Australia with the main crops at the moment being sugar cane and bananas. There are also mango and paw paw trees but they are out of season. There are railway tracks everywhere for the cane train and they just cross the road when they need to. Sometimes there are flashing lights warning you to stop, other times there is a sign say look for trains. At night when sitting out on the deck having a beer you can often see the orange flashing light of the cane train piercing the blackness of the night.

In stark contrast to this farming landscape are the surrounding hills and mountains, covered by native rainforest. The house that is currently home sits on land once cleared for farming and is flanked to the sides and rear by such rain forest. The sounds are quite amazing with a constant buzz from cricket type bugs and then the squares of the birds, the noisiest being a pair of kookaburras who periodically let us know they are still there with a loud, shrill laugh. There is also a kingfisher (a same family as the kookaburra) who sometimes visits of an evening.

The other main visual feature here are the creeks. They are everywhere, every one has a name and a road sign telling you. Although the creeks look crystal clear and some even have fairly deep pools, swimming is not a good idea. The Australian Salty or estuarine crocodile live in most creeks, estuaries and even the sea so donning your budgie smugglers and diving in is not a good idea.

One of the most striking things here for me is the sunrise and sunset. I’m not sure if it’s the time of year or the location but the sun rises and sets quickly. Seeing a warm, orange sun sinking behind the tropical trees coating the mountainous skyline is quite beautiful. The same goes for the sunrise although as the sun rises it illuminates a layer of thick milky-white mist covering the floor of the lower areas.

Other features that stand out are the numerous fruit stalls at the side of the road. As you pull in you see a range of fruit on offer with the prices clearly displayed, but no-one to pay. Instead there is a small metal box attached to the stand into which you post your payment. Now that’s what I call trust. Can’t see it taking off in the UK somehow!

And then there is the road signs. Road signs for everything from speed limits and dips in the road to wildlife crossings, bus routes and slippery surfaces. But they are constant. The Australian highways department must spend a fortune on signage.

The two main towns near here are Mena Creek and Innisfail. Mena Creek is probably what I would call a village except the term village doesn’t exist here. It has a pub and a couple of shops. I haven’t been in the shops but I’m sure you can buy your bait and ice here if you want. The pub is ok for a couple of tinnies and a veggie snack.

Innisfail is more what I would call a town and is built on the Johnston river. There is a main street with shops and cafes, a small harbour on the river with varying sizes of boats and quite a large residential area. Oh and I mustn’t forget, it also has a library of which I have been given thefull tour, access all areas!

Innisfail seems a little run down and is probably suffering from the two major cyclones, Larry and Yasi. Certainly those whom I have spoken to do not regard the town as a hive of cultural activity. But it has a beautiful side. Driving up into the hills the residential housing continues and when the top is reached it becomes plain to see why people live up here. The views out over the Johnston river and the sprawling town are amazing. The rooftops of the houses look like umbrellas scattered in haphazard rows amongst the vegetation with the river swelling and curling through them, seemingly at will.

And driving down to the estuary revealed sights equally spectacular with a mix of rainforest, mangroves, beaches and the wide mouth of the Johnston river pouring into the sea. There were a few small boats on the water and a group of three or four people casting a fishing net off the side of a jetty ramp. Otherwise the view was empty of human interference and quite serene.

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Advanced Open Water (day 3)

This is the last day of diving with 3 scheduled dives before we head back to Cairns. All three dives were on Flynn Reef, the first at the Pools and the other two at Coral Gardens.

The first dive of the day was at 6.30am just as the sun rose above the horizon, still the best way to wake up in the morning. This was a good dive and we only strayed off course once! We saw a few barracuda circling something on the sand, a couple of leisurely turtles having breakfast and a couple of metre long white tip sharks. The white tips were amazing, the first swimming underneath us and the second swimming past us to the side. Amazing.

Back in from the dive and it was time for breakfast whilst the moved the boat, a quick briefing and back in the water. This site was amazing and, once you’ve seen it, you really appreciate the name Coral Gardens. It was absolutely stunning. We strayed slightly of course this time, ending up in some very shallow waters, maybe a metre and a half in places. This was too shallow to dive but the Corals were beautiful. And the site was teaming with fish from huge parrotfish and wrasses to tiny damsels and colourful butterfly fish. And of course the now obligatory turtle.

Back on the boat we had time for a quick snack and dive briefing and then back in the water for the final dive of the trip. Unfortunately my buddy wasn’t diving due to a problem with his ear so I joined a French girl and American chap for what turned out to be a really relaxed dive. And the spot of the day were my first Nudibranches, a couple of blue ones and a couple of yellow ones. This was such a slow, laid back dive it was fantastic. And you really do get to see more this way. After 45 minutes diving we surfaced without getting lost to calls from Jo the cook. Lunch was served.

After such a relaxed dive it felt like stepping into a war zone on the boat all the kit was rinsed and packed away. Lunch had to be served, eaten and the kitchen tidied away ready for the trip back. Although it was now sunny, the water was a little choppy on the way back but the engines were cut about an hour into the journey and we were treated to the sight of 3 humpback whales about 40 metres away. What a way to end diving on the Great Barrier Reef.