Leaving Mareeba we headed for Kuranda and what a contrast. Kuranda was basically a hippy settlement until they realised they could become businessmen and make money. The town is thriving with loads of shops and cafes, is beautifully maintained and has a really nice atmosphere. There is a lot of really good art and craft stuff about including a co-operative art centre, probably a remnant from the hippy era. Evan better than that were the pancakes and coffee I had for breakfast. Certainly hit the spot.
After spending a good hour or so wandering round the new market, the old market and past the train station to the river Barron it was time to leave the Tablelands and move onto the next stop, Hartley’s Crocodile Adventure just outside Cairns.
Well Hartley’s Crocodile Adventure was pretty amazing. I was a little apprehensive as I don’t like zoos and it sounded a little too touristy. And it was touristy but well worth the visit. Apart from crocs there were snakes, spiders, kangaroos, wombats and monitor lizards. Once we had wandered round and seen everything else we strolled round the part with crocs. The first one I walked past I thought was plastic until it moved, which made me move even though there was a double fence in between us! 5m of croc weighing in at over a tonne is quite scary close up!
Then came the boat ride. Our guide and the star of the star of the show was Jason. Playing the stereotypical Aussie he steered and joked his way out into the lagoon with a boat full of people. As we moved through the lagoon Jason pointed out mounds of leaves which were croc nests. To control numbers in this enclosed lagoon the staff collect the eggs from the nests in what he described as the most hardcore easter egg hunt on the planet!
Stopping mid water and with a chicken head tied to a long pole the crocs began to gather by the side of the boat and jump to get the food. They raised a good metre out of the water and slapped their jaws, just missing the meal but giving us a fabulous photo opportunity! The sound of the jaws snapping shut was pretty chilling and seeing these creatures so close was pretty awesome. I was glad for the safety glass separating us.
After a few jumps on either side of the bus we returned to dry land just in time for the ‘attack show’, again featuring Jason.
With tiered seating around a small area of water no more than 6 meters round the show began. Into the arena walked Jason and began stamping his feet in the water. Crocs can sense vibration and sure enough Bart (odd name for a croc I know) surfaced. Then with a chunk of meat on a rope the show began. Tossing the meat in front of the croc it attacked and in an instant the meat was firmly locked in its jaws. Slowly the croc sank into the water, drowning its quarry. With a few tugs on the rope Bart surfaced and after a couple more tugs Bart showed us the death roll. A 360 degree roll designed to break off extremities such as limbs leaving the croc only with the meat in it’s jaws.
Next came the hand feeding. Mad. How Jason has all his limbs left I don’t know. He was in the water, bare-foot, holding a chunk of what looked like a tuna fish. The croc chased him across the water and launched at the meat, which he got. Jason let go just in time and made it to safety complete with all his limbs in tact. It takes a certain type of person to do this kind of thing and, at times like this, I’m glad I work in a library!
To fund the business Hartley’s also operate a crocodile farm supplying the top-end fashion designers with 3 year old croc skins for bags, belts, purses, shoes etc. This side of the business is not so good but while people will pay silly amounts of money for croc skin I guess farming is better than hunting wild crocs. Maybe.
