Volunteer Teacher

Posted on 16/11/2012 by Vicky

Badly driven 4 wheel drives with Mum’s on mobiles is not a British phenominum outside schools, it’s just the same here!! Once you get the idea of how the traffic works, cycling is quite straight forward. No one seriously stops at junctions, but the traffic seems to meld into a new direction. Rule one, big rules the roads; rule two, never go so fast you need to use the brakes, nor so slowly that you need to stop. I have been cycling to the school there and back, twice a day. The pot- holed muddy roads with puddles that are big enough to have crocodiles at the bottom are a bigger danger than the main roads.

There’s not enough space in the state schools for children to go all day, so they go morning or afternoon. The children I am working with go to state school but come to ABC and Rice the other half of the day, rather than be on the streets either doing nothing or selling post cards etc. they have to be pretty poor to come to the school, and are encouraged by being” paid ” with 3 kilos of rice a month, so their parents don’t have to send them out to earn.

One or two will probably learn English sufficiently well to get a job in the tourism industry, from waiters to guides, but whether those who aspire to be doctors will have the chance, who knows……..

My role was to help with pronunciation and vocabulary. First lesson, by reading a book , which the children read back, other classes by supporting their teacher in much the same way. I’ ve enjoyed it but would find it hard to have done it for longer.

Mr Blue, Bamboo Train and Boats

Posted on 16/11/2012 by Vicky

Mr Blue was the tuk-tuk driver, who despite charging an exorbitant amount when I got off the bus in Battambang to the hotel, I paid to take me on a drive around the countryside the next day, forgetting to bargain for a price again!!

First we went to the bamboo train, this is only a tourist attraction but run along the track that used to be the main line from Thailand to Phnom Penh. It consists of a bamboo palette resting on the axels of a set of small train wheels, and is driven by a diesel motor. So you’re sitting fairly low to the ground where it is easy to see the rails , which are neither smooth nor parallel. The tracks runs ( thankfully) in a straight line for about 10 k through some villages, and flat flat countryside, to a village where there are brick kilns. Three beautifully built kilns, fuelled by rice husks.

What do you do when a train is coming in the opposite direction? Simple, passengers get off and your train is dismantled, two or more trains going in one direction, win over a single train in the other direction.

The trip round the countryside was very beautiful. Very few of the old wooden houses left. Here, when you do well and get rich, you build a new house out of modern non sustainable materials. Mr Blue thought the English were mad, when I explained it is the opposite and we aspire to a 300 year old house. I saw a village on the river where the exclusive business is drying fish, palette after palette of what looked like kippers lying in the sun to dry, some fish are smoked and they also make fish paste in the village, which goes into a great many dishes for flavour. It involves leaving fish to ferment for about three months, ( maybe I heard him wrong) and then doing various things to it. To my surprise it didn’t smell much. I must be getting acclimatised!

There were other industries, still done in the old way, making rice paper that is used for wrapping spring rolls, weaving, and drying thin strips on banana, 3 kilos can be sold to the shops for $1, that’s a lot of bananas and work.

I visited a temple that is now closed as it had been used by the Khmer Rouge, as a detention and torture centre, before slaughtering people, men, women children and babies. But I didn’t want to visit the caves that they threw people into, dead or alive, it didn’t matter to them. It seemed appropriate that it was Remembrance Day, these horrors should never be forgotten either.

The return journey to Siem Reap was on the boat, this was long and crowded , but included a few local people who had obviously been to Battambang to stock up on the goods that the shops in the local villages don’t have. The journey was along a river where there were lots of fishermen in their little dug out boats, and our boat weaved between them, so as not to get tangled in their nets( their livelihood). We then travelled along the top end of Tonle Sap lake (claimed by the Cambodians to be the largest lake in South East Asia) where there are many floating villages. The stronger houses are on stilts but the poorer ones are built on bamboo rafts. So every time a boat with its huge wake goes by their house rocks.

Before leaving Siem Reap , I will tell you a little about the school. Lunch break finished now, back to work!

How time flies

Posted on 14/11/2012 by Paul

Having boarded the ferry at Rosslare and awaiting departure, I can but wonder where this last week has gone. It seems only yesterday the satnav was guiding through the highways of Ireland on route to Claremorris.

It has been a fantastic time catching up with the nine strong clan unseen for seven years, and some I was meeting for the first time. The newest member, Ariana is gorgeous and I think it’s safe to say we are now the best of friends. She is very lucky to have Rebecca as such a wonderful Mum.

Food played a big part of our week not least the oat balls made by Noah and Izabella. And Francesca spoilt us with home cooked vegetarian fare second to none. The twins, Cassie and Olivia, although ill were great. Olivia makes the perfect helper in the kitchen and we all shared numerous games of peg solitaire on the iPads. Cassie accompanied us to see Skyfall with her elder brother Lucas at the cinema at Castlebar. Lucas has really grown up although he has not lost his cheeky smile, something that will stand him in good stead with the ladies for years to come I’m sure. Finally we have Victoria who, like Lucas, has really grown up, blossoming into a lovely lady. I have watched her play tennis and listened to her play the recorder and loved every minute.

Aside from family, Claremorris is a chilled and friendly part of Ireland offering not only friendly smiles and a warm welcome but lovely vegetarian lunches and the best Guinness I have drunk. So much so even the Latvian ladies in Wardes pub looked Good! Quickest pair of beer goggles I have ever experienced.

We have walked, talked, wined and dined and now I find myself returning home relaxed, recharged and smiling.

Stranded in Sisophon…

Posted on 11/11/2012 by Vicky

Took a quick breather and leg stretch on a long bus journey, snap a photo, turn round and the bus was pulling away……..but was assured by a local that it would be back in 10 minutes. Well, 10 minutes in Asia can be long time……Might have been worse, could have been waiting for a Network Rail connection.

The bus was back in 20 minutes and on I went to Battambang.

Nothing like a bank holiday!! Especially one to celebrate independence from the French in 1953. So, I had a long weekend. Could have gone to Phnom Penh, but have heard that as the king is lying in state, ( he died in October, and the funeral will be in February, I presume embalming is a local skill much practiced) that some of the Royal Palace is not open. Hence the trip to Battambang.

As the Cambodians say,” Same, Same , but different”another French colonial city on a river. Unusual name for a restaurant, I think, reading the menu at the Write Rose Restaurant, only to notice next day when I went there for breakfast, that the sign outside says White Rose! And as for some of the typos on menus, you really wonder what you’re going to eat. Biggest difference is that there is not a huge area given over to bars and restaurants for travellers and tourists. One street for mobile phone shops, can they sell that many mobiles still? One for pharmacists, what a hypochondiacal people they must be. One for restaurants, and best street of all , salons where you can have a make over and get your outfit for weddings and other special events, along with the photographers’ shops that go with these occasions.

And weddings there were, they start at 5.30 a.m. Goodness knows what time the Bride has to get up to get ready. And finnish about midnight. Not only was this in the hotel two down from mine, but also two mornings running!!! The event takes place under a very colourful awning right across the street and the music and chanting are all broadcast on speakers across the neighbourhood. In addition to weddings, similarly noisy events were taking place in the town and countryside to celebrate the end of the wet season. Music and chanting , a huge meal, and the monks come along to bless the village and take back lots of food and goodies to keep themselves going.

You’ll have to wait for the next instalment of my bank holiday weekend…

Just a picture to give you a flavour of what I’m talking about.

Emerald Isle road trip

Posted on 08/11/2012 by Paul

There is nothing better than waking up in the morning, packing a bag, jumping in the car and going for a road trip. By the time I left Cheltenham I had a full tank of gas, half a pack of baccy and I was wearing sunglasses.

My route took me through the Forrest of Dean, and with the seasons sun sitting low in the sky, the autumnal green and gold was warm and calming. As I strayed into the familiar territory of the heads of the valleys the sky turned grey and the autumn scenery was interrupted with the slender blades of wind turbines. They seem quite surreal.

Passing Pembroke the satnav decided to take the scenic route through small lanes winding up and over mountains until Fishguard harbour came into sight. The sea looked calm only gently swaying the few fishing boats moored in waiting.

The crossing was very smooth even though the captain announced before moving out that he would be using stabilisers. Must be a trainee captain. And now I get to set foot on the Emerald Isle for the first time, Ireland being the only country in these sceptres isles I have never visited before.

And finally I arrive in Claremorris after nearly 5 hours of driving through a mixture of dual carriageways and windy lanes. A few glasses of whiskey and it’s off to to bed before meeting the rest of the clan tomorrow. And Noah says I can walk to school with him tomorrow.

Siem Reap

Posted on 05/11/2012 by Vicky

After lots of sea, sand and snorkelling, good company and plenty of fresh seafood, I had a day’s travelling, more hairy scary driving, and am now in Siem Reap. Arriving here after dark and all I saw was a long road of monumental looking hotels full of air conditioned luxury coaches in their car parks. It all looked like something out of Hollywood , and all have Angkor somewhere in their name.

There’s a great market here, lots of the usual stuff, but some good fairtrade local art too, beautiful silk. Lots of “jewellery” stalls, they also change money, as the $ US is the main currency, with the local currency the subsidiary one , something like 5000 riel to the dollar, so all those noughts again.

One moment tat, the next you are in the food market, fruit and veg fine, but you don’t want to be in the meat and fish section late in the day as it’s getting a bit hot by then. And a man with a sewing machine who took up my trousers to make them into shorts for $2.00!!

A day is probably enough to find your way round Siem Reap, which left me a day free, so off I went at dawn (again) to see Angkor Wat. It’s so enormous it’s hard to take in, but I still prefer European Cathedrals which are more delicate and feel less claustrophobic. Like them it is probable that a lot of the stone work was originally painted, but then of course, the stone would have the soft colour of new sandstone, not black and polluted. Later on the day I went to another temple, which I much preferred, and got the tail end of the daylight.

So just waiting to be picked up by the school, first day back nerves, think i’ll by winging it.

Ban Bang Bao, Koh Chang

Posted on 29/10/2012 by Vicky

Ban Bang Bao, Koh Chang

Sorry, no picture attached last time, don’t know what happened there.

It’s Sunday , I think, forgive sloppy spelling etc, as it’s not easy typing while lying in a hammock. A well deserved rest, as the first day here I went on a trek in the jungle. Was warned it was hard, but as ever didn’t listen. It was steep, steep, hot hot, and slippery, the best way down was by sliding on your bottom. A sort of off piste, cross-country -down-hill slalom at 34c. And for added adventure, a few rivers to cross, some through the water or simply a felled tree.

Yesterday was a great improvement. Out on a boat all day. Three goes at snorkling and lots of beautiful fish with a good lunch thrown in. Definitely something I could take to!! And then night fishing later in the evening.

To all at work, thanks for the Snorkling kit.

The Island is very beautiful, just a lump of jungle-covered mountains with a road that doesn’t quite go all the way round. The first resorts you hit when you get off the ferry have long sandy beaches. But the bars, eateries etc are Blackpool -in -the -tropics, well more hippyish than that, but you get the drift.

This village at the south end of the island must once have been a fishing centre as it has a large natural harbour. But the local economy has now become so tourist dominated with over priced restaurants ( 3 times as expensive as Bangkok and not so good) hippy clothes and tat, that you can’t even see where the locals do their shopping.

Picture of sunrise!…..

Paradise

Posted on 27/10/2012 by Vicky

Paradise

Woke up this morning, just as it was getting light, and this is the view from my window.

Worth being awake at 6.00a.m.

Goodbye Bangkok

Posted on 24/10/2012 by Vicky

It’s been a great 4 days, and I have realised that ( against my Anglo Saxon Protestant upbringing) it is not a sin to read a novel in the morning. Sit and have a coffee , or beer, and watch the world go by.

The difficulty in walking anywhere, apart from the heat, and really most of what I wanted to see in the old city is in walking distance, is that every tuk-tuk driver thinks you’re mad to walk and asks “you want shoppeeng!” No, I don’t want shopping, I like walking. If you do say you’ll take their tuk-tuk, they insist you go shoppeeng, as they get petrol coupons from these emporia. If they don’t like the price you suggest, they get a city map out and show you it’s a long way and petrol is expensive. But anyway an air conditioned taxi is only pence more, or sometimes less! without the unwanted retail opportunity.

Yesterday I went to a town with a long unpronounceable name to see the floating market. I love white knuckle rides, but only at Alton Towers where I know it’s safe. I don’t like it when the mini bus is driven at about 80 plus mph, and so near the vehicle in front you can see the hairs on the back of that driver’s neck. ( I was told today these guys all do double shifts so are on amphetamines, swallowed down with red bull to keep themselves awake). Any way after 90 minutes of this the floating market was interesting, really only a tourist attraction now, with plenty of, yes you’ve guessed it, shoppeeng. But a good photo opportunitee.

Bangkok certainly wins my food award. 4 days of the best most delicious food I’ve ever eaten, and sometimes for less the a quid. And I still haven’t had street food!

Off tomorrow, 8 hour coach journey, ( I’ll try not to think about the driver’s drug habits) to Ko Chang and practice becoming a beach bum. Get the mask and snorkel out of my suit case at last.

On my way…

Posted on 21/10/2012 by Vicky

I’ve lost track of what we have seen and done since I last wrote! A day on Lake Inle, which is still in the hilly region of Shan, so still cool. it would be very peaceful except for the speed that the boats are driven, throwing up an impressive spew of water behind them. Being a bit of a tree hugger I was worried about the environmental damage this causes, let alone the wake that rocks the local people , who live in stilt houses and know no dry land, who get around in what is little more than a dug out. We were up and down the canals that run off the lake and in and out of ” cottage industry” shops.

There was a bonus, as once a year there is a huge 16 day festival, when Buddha statues are taken round the villages on the lake in a huge gold dragon-painted barge. Long boats with 20 rowers each side with dancing girls, all of which we saw, and some time in the week they race these huge barges on the lake itself. Don’t ask me to describe how it’s done, but they stand as they row, and with their lower leg twisted round the oar they row the boat. If you’re rowing you own little boat, fine, but with rowers each side, you need an equal number of lefties!

A cycle ride was a good break one day, I think it might even have been temple free. One day in Rangoon, and now I’m at the Airport and off to Bangkok

So now the travels really begin, but Asia is no longer quite so strange to me.